Yeah the metal is unobtanium but I will ask where he got his, in fact I just spoke to him and he did get the metal bits 2nd hand, he also said that you can use front ones and cut them to size for the rear and also there are stainless steel ones out there so if asking see if they have the stainless ones as they wont rust but he also recommended MK2 Spares, if they haven't them no one will I reckon.
Good luck and if you do find them report back your findings as it may help someone in the future.
It's fine to run without a cap, if it boils over then you know it's overheating and the stat is stuck, obviously don't run it up to temp and then take the cap off lol.
My mate had a nightmare sourcing those and iirc I dont think there is a separate part number, best to source the whole scraper, Matt at MK2 Spares might have some you can contact him on Facebook or via his EBay shop https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/mk2sparesukltd
I've run ATS cups 7x15 with an ET28 and 195/50 tyres, they rubbed slightly on the back, yours will be 7mm further in so I reckon they will be ok, if you went with 195/45.
Yes, but you weren't very specific in your request, Aerial, roof aerial beesting type? wing aerial? hidden aerial? which aerial, it is up to you to specify not got us to ask!
The fun continues then! With regards to changing the front lines how feasible is it having the car on axle stands with engine in? Is it a case of wiggling them right or is there too much in the way?
Will be fine on axle stands, just put the wheels underneath for back up, not hard to get the pipes off they are not that complicated, this will give you the idea https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284600419805
Calipers off and renewing everything which is good. The bad bit is that the hoses have seen better days.
No issue, easy to change.... Wrong. The hard lines are practically welded to the hose with the captive nut beginning to defom its so tight.
Cut the clip off to get better purchase but no luck. Have saturated in wd40 for now.
Apart from trying some heat has anyone got any suggestions?
You could get a bit of copper pipe a cutter and flaring tool and use a connector, so cut off a bit of hard pipe on the flexi, make a new piece and use a connector.
Thanks both really appreciate the reply and the help. @Monkey the engine has been solid for the last 5 years but hardly gets used nowadays tbh. I'll go through the steps and update. In the meantime I've created a link to the pictures I took of the stuff in the Sump and from underneath which may give a bit more context.
Was the stuff in there hard black plastic bits? If so probably the baffle, I grounded mine one day and dinged the sump it broke into pieces and some got sucked in the pump pick up.
Yes you can fit rears to front, I've done it, from memory you swap over the front lever to the rear handle as they have different offset, there is a pin and a couple of screws, 10 min job really.