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Messages - JacksonBrownPants

1
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Rough cold starts
I could turn it over indefinitely without the jump leads on, it just wouldn’t find enough energy to start it seemed. As soon as it was connected up to the other car it started, and this morning it started fine with zero delay.

I thought maybe a battery issue, but it is a relatively new battery. Has died a few times from sitting and me leaving the lights on like a numpty.
2
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Rough cold starts
Ok so i've got the coolant temp sensor and blue temp sender on order and will replace them when they're in. The past few days it's started absolutely fine, though still runs a little rough until it's up to temp.

This evening i've gone to move the car, and it's just turning over and won't start at all. A couple of times it grumbled, definitely tried to start but just sat turning over forever. Hooked up the jump leads and it started. Now i'm even more stumped. Could i have a wiring problem somewhere maybe?
3
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Rough cold starts
Thanks for the advice. I haven’t had time to clean out the ISV yet but I did quickly check the blue temp sender.

The car is turning over a lot not too before eventually starting and running rough for a few minutes. I unplugged the sender to see what the start was like and it started pretty quickly but the idle was very erratic. Plugged it back in and I’ll settled immediately. Does this suggest a functional sender?

I guess my next steps will be CTS and O2 sensor?
4
Engine & Gearbox / Rough cold starts
Hey,

Got a digifant 8v. Car was fine but in the past couple months has started to struggle to start. Often it starts and it's super rough, sounding almost like it's cammed, sometimes it's even so lumpy that it cuts out. Once it cuts, it really struggles to start again. Once it is running and has had a few moments for the revs to settle, it runs perfectly fine, and once it's hot will start again no problem.

There's nothing obvious. I'm going to clean the ISV out and see if that helps (checked and it's definitely still working), but if it doesn't i'm not sure where to start looking next. If anybody's got any ideas, i'd love to hear them.


TIA!
5
I.C.E & Electrical / Need some advice after today’s series of events
Came out this morning to find passenger side indicator lights were all on. Not flashing, constant on. Car started fine but cut out, restarted with a little pumping and was idling fine. Thought I’d flick the indicators and hazards to see if it booted the lights up the arse and got them working but instead that caused ALL of them to become stuck constant on.

Figured I’d solve it later so started driving and thought I could smell electrical burning so pulled over to investigate under the bonnet and the engine stayed on with the key out. Not much I could do at the side of the road so I stuck the key back in and drove home (30 minute drive). All other electrics are working, and by all I mean the only other 3 electrical things on the car - Stereo, wipers, heater.

By the time I was home the indicators were working fine again, all other lights were working as normal, no warnings on the dash and the car stopped as usual on my drive and restarted again without fault. Everything looked good. Until I got out the car and shut the door.

With the car off and the door shut, my battery light is on, coolant light flashes a few times then stops and my oil light is flashing. Open the door and they go off. Start the engine and they go off.

I wonder, flick the interior light from auto to off and this stops the warning lights when I close the door.

The seats are somewhat damp after a night of heavy rain so I’m assuming water has got in somewhere, but I can’t narrow it down to where. That, with all these random electrical faults leads me to believe I’ve got a water related short somewhere but how on earth do I identify what exactly is the root cause without ripping off panels and lining?
6
Wheels & Tyres / Re: Re-fitting Original Wheels
Quote from: Monkey on
Hi,

Unfortunately, you'll need a 4x100 spacer for your RAs, the Porsche one won't be any good as it's an adaptor specifically for the conversion.
Without seeing your adaptors, I'd say you probably need a large Alan Key or similar.
Depending on the condition of the new wheels, I'd probably just take them to a tyre fitter and ask them to swap the wheels/adaptors over for you. Even if they charge you, it'll be cheaper than buying the tool.
 

Yeah that's what i assumed. Oddly enough, wheels are the things i've messed with the least so i'm still not savvy on what's going on there haha.

I thought the bolts might be big allen key heads but i just thought they were too big to be allen keys. Learning a lot with this car!

Thanks for the info.
7
Wheels & Tyres / Re-fitting Original Wheels
Hey all,

So i'm being a bit of a donut and i need some help. When i bought my GTI the previous owner had put Porsche D90 wheels on. I've got my hands on a set of the original BBS RAs and i'd like to put them back on, obviously. The D90s are 5 bolt but the RAs are 4 bolt. The spacer on the hub is held on with 4 bolts but with 5 holes available for the a 5 bolt conversation.

My first question is, can i keep this spacer in if my bolts are long enough to go through all the threads or do i need another one that's specifically for 4 bolts?

My second question is, what tool do i need to get these hub bolts out? They're sunk in internal hex thread.

TIA, and apologies for being stupid!
8
New Members Say Hi! / Just joined the club!
Hello!

Recently bought a 1990 8v GTI so figured I’d say hi.

It’s in pretty good nick and I intend to keep it that way and as original as possible so I’ll probably have some questions at some point. Mostly just doing the introduction and being nosey about what the rest of you have going on.