Most like the vacuum CL has been ditched for electronic actuators. These are added into the door, possibly these have come loose and jammed the mechanism.
Take the drivers door card off for further inspection.
Yeah, I've only just managed to get some screws out to pry it open slightly. I won't be able to remove the card, as I can't open the door. I'm probably going to have to remove the drivers eat to swing it open some more, because I can barely get a hand in at the mo.
The drivers door lock stopped working, along with the central locking. Even the key doesn't work, and I can't even pull the door pin. Already snapped one trying to do it.
Now the central locking is controlled by the after market toad alarm. Which was probs installed in the early 2000's. I don't use the key to open the car. A feature of the alarm is that it locks you in once you turn the ignition, which can be unlocked by simply pulling the drivers doorpin. This has recently been getting worse when trying to pull the pin up to open the door, without having to go through the hassle of turning the car off, which would then unlock it. This is how I snapped a pin recently.
Tonight, it's totally gone. Key barely turns in the driver's door, the pin and puller on the outside both twitch slightly. The passenger door key hole works, but just unlocks that door old school style. There is no more central locking! Pump is silent, but I suspect that's because it still thinks it's locked. The alarm still arms thankfully, but now I have to climb through passenger door. The driver's door pin is locked down solid.
There's no point trying to get Toad involved as although they still exist, the company claim they have nothing to do with Toad, despite the number being called is on the damn website, along with all of their toad other alarm products. Basically they're not interested.
Can anyone help me with suggestsions etc? Otherwise I'm just going to end up calling an automotive locksmith.
So I'll address the comment about the fan. This noisy as f**k fan has but one speed. It's louder than the damn engine, but does work. Though reading what as been said, I probs need a 2 speed.
HOWEVER..
After putting it all back together, putting new sensors on. It is running fine, and actually slightly better. The temp needle sits better, it and revs better, and it isn't over heating. Doesn't even flash at me before the fan kicks in like it used to.
The thing that has me perplexed is the ammount of coolant it took. The capacity is about 6.3L, yet it only took 5L. Now the only logical reason is that it still had fluid in the system, but I flushed and then blew air through the system. So I have no idea why. Driving it for a bit, and giving it some, it remained at the correct level, and was totally fine. Which has left me a little sus.
Sadly due to the current fuel issue at the pumps, I can't get any Vpower, or premium fuel for it, and it's close to red on the gauge. So when I can, I will give it a proper run.
I WILL address that fan topic and look at 2 speed fans. The original that was on it started squeeling like a pig, but was still working. Because it's a sealed unit, I can't get it repaired.
Don't forget you need to check the levels when cold. The thermostat could have been trapping air until it opened up.
Yup. Still at the same level. Must've had some fluid in the block or pump, like you said. I will continue to monitor but it seems all good.
So I'll address the comment about the fan. This noisy as f**k fan has but one speed. It's louder than the damn engine, but does work. Though reading what as been said, I probs need a 2 speed.
HOWEVER..
After putting it all back together, putting new sensors on. It is running fine, and actually slightly better. The temp needle sits better, it and revs better, and it isn't over heating. Doesn't even flash at me before the fan kicks in like it used to.
The thing that has me perplexed is the ammount of coolant it took. The capacity is about 6.3L, yet it only took 5L. Now the only logical reason is that it still had fluid in the system, but I flushed and then blew air through the system. So I have no idea why. Driving it for a bit, and giving it some, it remained at the correct level, and was totally fine. Which has left me a little sus.
Sadly due to the current fuel issue at the pumps, I can't get any Vpower, or premium fuel for it, and it's close to red on the gauge. So when I can, I will give it a proper run.
I WILL address that fan topic and look at 2 speed fans. The original that was on it started squeeling like a pig, but was still working. Because it's a sealed unit, I can't get it repaired.
If your fan has power it seems its missing the command to run which surely has to be the radiator temp sensor. I cant see how if the car is cold the cooling fan issue causes erratic running. scs
I agree, however from what I have read up on the subject, the ECU temp sensor seems to play a big overall part. It could be the over heating issue WAS to do with the fan rad sensor, and the somewhat ropey running is not connected and just happends to be a knackerd ECU temp sensor.
So I managed to get the rad sensor off today. It must be 29mm because 30 is the next size up that fits, albeit loose. I had to use an adjustable as I have no spanner big enough, or socket deep enough.
It looks pretty manky to be honest so it's probs that, or an amalgamation that and the ECU temp sensor. Tbh I am just going to start throwing it back together now I think. I have pretty much eliminated all possible issues now anyway. It's not the fan, it has a new rad sensor, new ECU temp sensor, I'm probs going to put the new thermostat on it too, even though the current one opens.
Not been as active on here as I'd like. Such is life.
I have an issue. My H reg mk2 GTI 8v Digifant is over heating. Essentially the fan wasn't coming on. This has been a gradual thing, as before the fan would kick in but rather late, by which point the temp gauge was flashing at me. It'd cool down once the fan kicked in, but the fan would be on almost constantly. Motorways and fast moving traffic it was fine of course.
Now it has been a little ropey up to this point, with it stalling when coming to a junction, whilst the engine is cold. Once warmed up it was fine, idles fine, albeit when the revs drop it would stutter everso slightly a moment before regulating itself again.
Anyway to cut a long story short. The fan isn't kicking in. Now the fan is only a few months old so I don't think it's that. It had power going to it when the AA tech tested all the connections. (I came off the m6 on my way up to Mancester when traffic was gridlocked)
I have drained the coolant to take a look at the 'stat. (removing the PAS pump was a bit of a nightmare). I have tested the 'stat and it starts to open at the tempt set by it at 87c. So it's not that. So now I'm thinking it's either the rad sensor, or the tempreture sender unit or the thermo switch? I have the later version which is 2 sensors going in to a hose connector on the side of the engine with the spark plugs.
I have heard horror storys about these sensors, namely the blue one. Haynes calls it the ECU temp sensor. What I am unsure about is would it even play a part with the fan? I don't know how interconnected these are given it's an old car. I would've thought the fan would run off from the rad sensor, which is linked to the overall coolant temp, and works in tandem with the 'stat?
Basically where I am now is I don't want to waste time and money sticking coolant back in, putting the PAS pump back on, and then pissing about takings things off again, like the rad sensor. (Can't actually get it off as I don't have a big enough spanner/socket.) I also hear I have to reset the ECU after swapping the ECU temp sensor.
I will attached a link to some images, including the old and new one. The old one does look a bit knackered and is probs the original. It's VAG and VDO brand. The new OEM one I have bought looks cheap in comparison, although it certainly wasn't to buy.
Bascially can anyone give me any suggestions or tips? I want to get my baby back on the road as I miss driving it!
So I had a little accident in the Golf, which caused me to mount the enbankment. Car is ok but I lost my black side skirt and partially ripped the rear wheel arch off. Both on the off side.
Now I'm looking but I can't find the damn things online. I've been to ebay, VW classic parts in Germany, Heritage parts centre. The only wheel arches I've seen that look like they'd go on mine are down as being for a g60. I've no idea if that makes any difference.
To be honest I think it might be ok. I need to properly look in the daylight. The damn side skirt is what I really need!
I don't think it makes any difference, but my Gti is a 5 door.
Been priming and filling today. That little indent is such a pain!! The primer tends to collect, even when giving it a light coat. Will post pics tomorrow. It won't be a bang tidy job, but it's stopped the rust becoming more of an issue!
Even though I wrote the guide, I managed to get a puzzling water leak in my latest Mk2 which wasn't any of the above.
I had signs of it early on with a drip above the fusebox. Sealing the bonnet release grommet (#5) didn't solve it.
Further investigation, which was back-ed up with a tip of from a fellow Mk2 owner had me suspecting the blank panel under the ECU. For LHD cars this is a big whole the same as we have on the other side, where the blower vent is.
Turns out the panel is sealed with a bead of wax and a sheet of bitumen over the top. Both prone to going brittle with age.
With dash removed, fusebox dropped and the fusebox cradle taken out you can see the pink blank panel:
From the top side, with ECU, ECU bracket and the panel removed:
Cleaned up, rust treated, seam sealant and painted:
Fingers crossed and good luck to anyone suffering with the same.
Yeah, I think it's safe to say that's not going to leak now! Haha
I'm going to check mine tomorrow. Thankfully mine is ok so far
So I've finally started addessing some of the little rust spots. The first, and worst is the blank wiper bung. I swear it was getting worse each week. And my god it was a pain to remove the bung! Lots of grinding with the dremel, and now some Fertan rust treatment on it. I've had to cover it with a little bin bag tent tonight. Hopefully it'll be ok over night and all being well I can prime it.
It's a bit keyhole surgery with the windscreen seal. Again, this is the worst spot on the car. The rest ammounts to a few little surface spots with no bubbling, to a little bit of bubbling at the bottom of the doors.
I'm sure someone can recommend better foam than I but this is what I have done. You want to stop any air getting through the flaps. When you dismantle the heater box you will see why. A small amount of air will get past the flaps anyway. Removing the old membrane of glue is awful. Use some adhesive remover. I used sticky A4 foam sheets from Hobbycraft. They are cheap and readily available. However you will need to cover it with sticky aluminium tape (insulation tape) because the stickyness will degrade over time. I found that out when I took my heater box out to install aircon. I'd recommend you completely cover the foam with a good overlap of Ali tape. This time round I have put a lip of foam round the edge of the flaps so they don't rattle and covered the whole flap with Ali tape. Put the box back together and test the flaps have full movement before refitting. If you take the full unit including dash and pipes you probably want to clean then out of all the little bits of foam. When done there is the foam round the actual vents that you may wish to renew. Not done that yet...just removed it! If you do take the dash out. Check the leading edge is sealed (demisting will be cr4p) and the heater aperture is the correct shape (reshape and reinforce with sheet plastic and coat with a PVA solution to restore rigidity) Good luck!
Ah that sounds good. Thanks. What you suggested sounds like what I've orderded on ebay.
So regarding this, I'm trying to get some foam to replace the old stuff.
What would be the best? Does it need to be open cell foam similar to what was on the car to allow SOME AIR through? Or can it be some nice neopreane style closed cell modern foam?
