Possible source motor parts, has anyone considered using the motor unit from a Golf E, since its based on the Mk4/5 platform the mounts should line up with the standard fittings a la 20v conversions. Plus its VW so keeping the faith, driveshafts should all work to, you then only need 3rd party controller as I doubt the VAG unit is going to want to plug and play unless you transplant the entire loom and plug in everything as it was. Add to that the battery of choice and you are on.
Seen the Golf E units go for around the £500 mark so on par with aftermarket stuff that you still need to make up linkages and gearbox plates etc.
Have considered it for my Auto, but not started anything yet.
Just shout, done the same myself, as have others here. Basically you can do it with VW parts from other models except a few parts like hoses, and an intercooler. You can use the one from the Rallye, but you will you will need a mortgage to buy one. Master cylinder from a Ford as it fits with minor modification and is cheaper than the VW one which is the same as soon as you mod it, bar the Ford logo you cant see once fitted.
Its really a case of finding the parts, some are getting pricey again but can still be got in plentiful amounts.
A G60 peddle box is going to be one of the harder to get parts, but if you get one it saves a lot of arsing around as it bolts straight in. Just drill a hole for the clutch cylinder and reinforce it and wire up. Use the Beetle gear box as if its a five speed Mk3 gear box mounts will fit straight in and use a VR6 flywheel and clutch, as the MK 4 set up is power sapping junk. The Beetle ECU and engine looms can be spliced in and the ecu can have the imo turned off and stuff like abs and airbags turned off.
Brakes wise the 239mm set up will not stand up so source 256 or bigger. You can use the Beetle stuff but your standard hubs are the fixed type so you need MK3 ones or Polo 6n2 1.4 16v or GTI ones. You can then use 4 bolt or 5 bolt hubs as theres fitment options for both. Grab a MK3 gold fuel tank (petrol) and you can then use the MK4/Beetle fuel pump and lines as the pump with minimal effort fits into the MK3 tank that bolts straight up to the Mk2 with a couple of spacers and longer bolts on the tank straps.
Cable change gearbox links fit right in and you only need to remove a lug on the tunnel. You can use the 4+e box you have but youll kill it inside a month or so and diff pin explosions are messy.
Sorry it all a bit of a ramble but its just how it all came back to me…..
No the trims are notorious for shrinking. Both my 5 doors did it and the oldest one has done it twice, but thats over the 20 odd years I have owned it.
Good news is that Heritage sell replacements that are slightly longer than needed, as they also fit the three door, you just cut them to size.
All I know is E10 is not that great, both my 6n2 and my lawn mower agree. Long term not so sure how it will fair with plastic pipes etc on the MK2’s even if VW say all is well.
Just to add my 92 auto Driver came with a taco. But given that its a 92 they threw almost all the options at it probably to get it off the forecourt. Also it came with a Blaupunkt stereo not the normal Panasonic that my other Mk2’s came with.
Also worth noting you can use a petrol Mk3 tank, youll need longer bolts for the straps and to make some spacers to bolt it all in, then you can use the Mk4 in tank pump. You need to remove the Mk3 pump mount. It will be all brittle any how so breaks up easily then you can fit the Mk4 pump straight it.
No more rusty mk2 pump thats 20 plus years old and bearly makes the correct pressure, for a 20VT engine.
Mk4 pumps are common to the petrol VAG range and are all the same sub two litre cars, so cheap as chips.
Sounds like it could be simply that the carb needs setting up, If the car runs fine once its a bit warm. Theres a myriad of different bits to adjust. Often age non educated owners and the MOT centre adjusting mix etc can throw them out. Rubjonny the God of all things VW made a guide. It should be on the forum. Its easy to follow and will get most peirburg carbs to behave. Worst case you’ll need a Waxstat or pull down unit. Ive fixed several that were supposedly borked but just needed correct setting up.
Both my Golfs are SORN currently cant see that changing for this year, so MOTs have lapsed. The Polo was due on the 10 of June but as its my Daily its not going to wait till December. The local garages are swamped currently and my local place is not taking booking unless i want to drive 45miles to their sister garage. Theres a lot of cowboys in my area that use MOTs to get work so I’m very selective. Over the years I have caught a few out. Fitting new brake pipes two years on the trot and both years the pipes still had the factory markings so were not OEM replacements or actually replaced at all. They no longer trade...... A couple others just tried to blind me with motor science telling me the back flowing dodad was broken or my flux capacitor was on the blink. They got told to F-off.
I now just use the places that only do MOTs and dont give a rats arse if your car passes or fails as they dont do any work on them.
Years ago a colleague had one at work. Seemed to work well. if you are handy with a soldering iron you might want to consider modding the radio to have Bluetooth. There are several methods and you can buy all the bits premade on the internet. Theres a few videos on YouTube also.
Inching ever closer to actually finishing the full strip down of my Red Mk2, so what that translates into is trying to mount the intercooler and collect up all the bits is still need/want. So far I have cleaned an tidied up the garage , built a harness to store my spare Mk2 roof out of the way, and removed the power steering pump and aircon compressor to make way for the intercooler piping.
I was thinking 16s as you still have a bit of rubber to help with pot holes. Also they fill the arches well. 17s are great but my experience is a harsher ride and constantly worrying about damaging them. I remember the first time I went from 13” to 14” ..... Now the Standard 14” on my 6n2 look so tiny, my guess is 16s would “correct” but standard looking on it.
I think it boils down to what you do with your car, where you drive it and how low it is.
Both of my 1.6 cars had an oil blacked finish on them that looked more like someone had sprayed them with a light mist of Bisto. I have owned the red one from almost new? The others had more washes than miles on it so is factory. My 8v digi had a black one and service history to show it was oem. Cant remember seeing an 8v in anything other than mattish black unless it was obviously painted. So i guess it may come down to where the engine was assembled and for what its set up for
