I've decided to sell my mk2 golf. It's a silver 1986 1.3 CL Typ19. 1 previous owner, 32k ish miles. Mot'd til Jan, for the right price I'd mot it - sure it'll pass again. Only advisory last near was corrosion on the exhaust back box.
Car was standing for quite a while before I got it (maybe 18yrs) but is totally solid. Super original and standard, interior is very good. I've got original sales receipt and owners manual, some tax discs, service book but no service history (the service book was never stamped) and no mots. I bought it blind from a guy who must've spotted it in someone's garden. It was the model I wanted and a low miles 1 owner car was exactly what I was after.
I got as a bit of a lock down project. Now the roads are busy again I've just lost interest in it as I can't really work on it in the street. I've also started to get into restoring Lambrettas (which I can do in my shed!) so think it's prob time to pass this car on to someone who can finish it off.
I've had a Mk2 Golf before, as well as a Mk1 Golf cab and a Mk2 Polo Derby so know my way around these cars a bit.
While I've had the car I've done the following:
When I got the car it had water in the foot wells so I stripped all interior, treated any surface rust on the floor (no rot in floor whatsoever), replaced sound proofing and put all interior back in, shampooed and cleaned. I have photos of all of this.
Water was coming in through the heater blower and doors. Unblocked drainage holes replaced door membranes and now car has no water ingress issues. Also replaced the heater blower with a good used one.
Replaced the dash with a very clean one (old one had cracked in the sun).
The Golf has broken down once where it just wouldn't spark. I replaced the ignition coil first but then it turned out to be the ignition module. Replaced that and car ran again. Hasn't broken down since. I still have the original ignition coil.
Also has had new radiator, thermostat, thermostat housing, coolant, air filter, battery, 4 new decent tyres, baby g60 wheels (I still have original wheels with 4 centre caps), carb flange, wiper blades and prob other stuff. I have kept all receipts.
With help from the owners club i managed to source the correct radio to fit the cage that was in the car. Unfortunately this has started to chew tapes though
Issues:
The main issue is the body work, it has quite a few dings and marks etc and the paint is really showing its age. I've given it a good clean and it doesn't look too bad, but really does want at least a partial respray. Worst dent is a crease along passenger side, not massively deep but runs along both doors. My plan was get the car into a shop for panels and paint, but have put it off as my street is busy and cars get bumped into all the time.
The wipers stopped 'parking' a while back, pretty sure this is a simple earth/fuse thing (I did actually ask about the issue on this forum) but haven't looked into this further.
Sometimes when the car has reached temperature, been turned off and then started again it'll cut out when the revs drop. It's got the original Pierberg still fitted, I figure it's an issue with the autochoke. I sourced a Weber 32 Dmtr (the correct model for the year of the car) with a nice metal flange that will be included with the car.
Door cards have some water staining.
Crack in windscreen above rear view mirror. I have injected resin in the crack though and it hasn't gotten any worse - I chose to keep the original windscreen instead of replacing.
Tried to be as thorough/honest as I can but I'm sure there's stuff I've missed/forgotten. 100% best thing is for anyone who is interested to come and view the car. I've also got some spares with it including a nice Desmo roof rack, brand new brake discs and pads and Bosch wiper blades and some used parts.
Price
Offers around £3k. The car owes me about £3k so somewhere around that mark would be good, though I do appreciate that the car is going to be a project so open to offers.
I'd also be open to part-ex on a Lambretta project or poss a Vespa should anyone have one...
I'm having trouble with the Pierberg 2e3 on my 1.3 CL so I've picked up a Weber 32 DMTR to replace it. Does anyone know the correct jetting for a 1.3 by any chance?? Apparently it's jetted for a 1.8 at the moment.
Just incase this helps anyone, the fault turned out to be a result of the garage not bleeding the coolant. Ran the car with the coolant cap off, squeezed the pipes, topped up the coolant (took another litre) and now the car maintains operating temperature and the bottom hose gets warm 👍
My Golf has another bit off an issue, its on a roll at the moment. I took it for an MOT and asked them to replace the thermostat housing as it was leaking coolant where it met the engine. They did that and it no longer leaks, all good. They also said they had to replace the thermostat - side note it doesn't look like the thermostat flange has been refitted quite correctly.
I picked it up and drove it about 30 miles, during which time it was getting to almost 3/4 on the temp gauge and staying there. Once hot it was also cutting out each time the revs dropped to idle speeds.
I knew the carb flange needed doing (I think the garage had knocked the air filter or something and made it worse) so I replaced that and now it doesn't cut out, but I'm still not sure about the temperature and whether or not something is wrong.
Its still getting to near 3/4 on the gauge and staying pretty firm, last night I let it get hot and felt the bottom hose from the radiator and it was cold. Also, whilst it doesn't cut out any more the car struggles to idle as it gets hot. Otherwise its running well.
I've read a load of stuff on what temperatures they should get to before fans kicking in, but, assuming the garage have used the correct thermostat, at what point should it open?
I've checked the coolant level and that's all good and oil is clear.
Anyway sorry for the essay and thanks in advance, just trying to get some advice before draining the coolant and messing with the thermostat!
Hello @Monkey@PWardy thanks for your messages regarding the wipers not parking, the a2 resource is ace thank you.
I got the car running again (carb flange) so will have a look into the wiper issue next time I get chance to look at the car (weekend hopefully)and report back!
Can’t comment on wipers, never had a problem with them not parking. The horn is likely to be an assembly issue at the steering wheel. I’d take it apart again and check that the horn can be triggered from the connections. If so assemble it so that it works. If you can’t trigger the alarm with the steering in pieces you have a fault to trace. Be wary of the immobilised circuit on the alarm. Trace the splice and reconnect the immobilised circuit. Then removal should be simply as you suggest.
Cheers for your message yeah got the horn working, it was just a bad connection bewteen the metal ring on the back of the wheel and the little tab it touches.
The alarm can stay as it is for the time being as now the car keeps cutting out so I need to fix that first!
Would really like to sort the wipers at some point though as it's quite annoying - I'll likely be posting about that again soon haha.
Got a few electrical issues with my 86 1.3 CL. Thought I'd lump them all into one post, hope that's cool.
1, wipers don't park, they stop as soon as you turn them off at the stalk. I've read about them needing a constant 12v, and if they lose this then they won't park themselves. How do I check that they have the feed? Also is this feed fused?
2, the horn doesn't work when you press the horn button in the middle of the wheel. I have had the wheel off and everything when I replaced the dash, and to be honest just never thought to check the horn, so could well be something I've done. Are there any tips on testing the circuit from the button to the stalk? The horn itself is working, as there is an old 'Linnwood Electronic' alarm fitted to the car which went off today for the first time and set the horn off! Which brings me to my third question:
3, does anyone have any experience with a Linnwood Electronic alarm? As I'd like to remove it from the car ideally as it clearly doesn't work properly. Is it as simple as following the wires that come out of it and snipping them?
It could be, I had a hall sender fail and it would do it when the car was warm. After an hour or two of driving, the car would cut out and refuse to start. After about an hour, it would start up again like nothing was wrong.
Did you change the hall sender yourself? I had a look and seems it's easier to replace the entire distributor.
When my car was cutting out it would start again immediately, which is why I wasn't too bothered by it - I just put it down to the Pierberg carb.
I found a Bentley manual online so if the new coil doesn't spark it back into life will carry out the tests detailed in the manual before buying anything else.
I'm more familiar with the larger engines, but do the 1.3s have a hall sender? Hall senders do tend to go, but I'm not sure if you'll have one.
Either way, you can try a new coil on it, that would also stop it sparking.
Hello, cheers for the reply. Yeah I have a hall sender, which is on my list of possible things to replace. I have ordered a new coil already as they're cheap and easy to replace, so thought may as well. Would be great if that sorts it!
It occurred to me this morning that the car would sometimes cut out when at low revs, mainly when trying to park, which was actually becoming more regular leading up to it dying. Also it would sometimes start a bit weirdly, like it would turn over as normal, then 'bog down' and then suddenly spring into life. I didn't really pay much attention at the time, but I guess these issues are related to it not starting at all now?
I've got an 86 1.3 CL with Pierberg carb, all original has done less than 30k, was standing for quite a while.
I've been tidying the car up over the last year or so, has always run fine though.
I haven't driven the car a great deal, a couple of long drives but generally maybe a couple of hours a week max. The other day (maybe a month or so ago now) I took it out for quite a long drive, did about 50 miles or so and the car cut out while I was driving. Just lost power and the engine stopped, no bang or anything like that. It would still turn over on the key but wouldn't start.
I suspected a failed fuel pump, and the AA guy said the same. So got it towed home, bought a fuel pump and only got round to fitting it last week. Unfortunately the car still won't start.
I've taken a couple of spark plugs out, put them back into their leads and turned the engine over and neither plug sparked. I've put a multimeter on the ignition coil and got no reading upon turning on the ignition.
Dizzy contacts arent the cleanest but look OK, ht leads look OK. Battery was fully charged.
I don't have a manual at the moment though will be picking one up.
Anybody have any ideas or suggestions on other stuff to check? Apologies if this has been covered a million times...
All 4 doors on my 5dr 86 CL in Diamond silver (LE7Y) are a bit tired and rusty in places. Before I start tidying them up just thought I'd see if anyone has any for sale?? Interested in front and back.
I would suggest using body repair seam sealer after using some rust convertor and primer. Probaby use some masking tape since in my experience the seam sealer is very messy to work with. Not sure it would be a permanent repair tho. Or change the doors if they have rust elsewhere, its really easy and if you get the same colour you don't have the hassle of painting them. Fortunately not seen any rust like that on my doors.
Hello cheers your response. I haven't seen that seam sealer before, looks like it might do the trick! The car was standing for years and I think water was getting trapped in places, hence the weird rusting on the doors.
Yeah if I could find a complete set of doors it'd be good, but I like the idea of fixing what's there rather than replacing it when possible. I shall pick up some seam sealer and try it out, cheers!
@Eddypeck cheers for the info that's really interesting, when I get round to the bumpers + trim I defintely pick up some of that Forever Black you mentioned, the trim in the photo you've attached looks lovely.
When I got the car it was flooded (water coming from blower - my Mk1 did the same) so I kinda started from the inside of the car. Thankfully the floor hadn't rotted out. Now that's sorted I'm working on the little rust patches that are here and there. Once I've done what I can I'll take the car to be welded and then I'll either have it detailed or have a go myself and see how well the paint comes up. I think the clear coat will sanding back and redoing in a few places where it has started to fail.
Can't wait to drive it, I reversed it about a metre, realised how wet it was and immediately started stripping it!
There are patches of rust that need treating on the doors of my Golf, and the bead that runs round the door will want replacing. What are you guys using to replace it?? I was thinking of running foam weatherstrip round the door and painting over the top but not sure if that's a good idea of not...
