This is a job I have just finished doing, haven't written up yet but seems like it might be worth having a "How to thread"
First Get a drill and drill out as much rubber as possible from the bush, eventually the metal inner will become loose and should tear out.
When you have got it out (Easier said than done, a few snapped drill bits should be expected) Take apart your hacksaw and reasseble with the blade inside the bush.
Then cut through the metal sidewall of the bush.
Use a screwdriver and hammer to bend the lips in on the top.
When they are bent in enough then use the screwdriver like a chisel down the side where the slit is and when you pull the screwdriver out the rest of the bush should fall out.
I re-installed Poly-bushes so my install was very simple, copper grease/anti seize and push in by hand.
I would go for Poly-bushes where possible just for ease and they are also very long lasting, I found a set in black so they look more standard than the Bugpack Red or Powerflex Purple.
I did look into it but if failed for a number of reasons, mainly fitting inside wheels, I think they required a minimum of 17" wheels and obviously required a swap to 5X100 when I wanted to run my 4X100.
It just seemed like more effort than it was worth, If I decide I need an upgrade there are loads of upgrade kits including the G60 setup which just needs new callipers discs and pads
With the car up in the air for the wheel refurbishment I decided it was a brilliant idea to start doing the front brake upgrade. (It wasnt)
I started off with De-assembly and if your on the Facebook group you may recall me asking for sugestions on how to remove a bolt snapped in the subframe mounting. See below.
This obviously snapped with the wishbone and the bush still inside. This meant about two days off cutting and grinding the wishbone out and then attempting to remove the bush. Eventually it all came out. I was left with just the bolt which somehow came out with some plumbers grips.
The new polyurethane bushed wishbone along with refurbished bearing carriers with fresh wheel bearings and hubs.
Fresh discs pads and callipers all in place
I got everything plumbed in with new hard lines from the T-piece and new brake hoses (With no thanks to heritage, I ordered braided brake lines 3 times and never received the correct kit
Next was an exciting addition, I had little to no involvement in, I just purchased the rear bench (I opted for solid without the 60-40 split) They were then sent off for Re-upholstering.
It has been way to long since I last posted in here so It is time to get back into it!
Quite a lot has happened since last time so it may take a while to get up to date.
Window Regulator.
I was surprised at how easy this was, simply door-card off, old unit out, new unit in and back together. To compare on a 2012 Polo I recently did you have to do the regulator through two tiny little access ports (not the 15 minute job it is on the Mk2)
A photo of the bare door with the broken regulator inside
Broken regulator cable
In doing the job I rounded off the window winder handle, luckily I had a spare laying around.
Heater Matrix, which then obviously turned into re-foaming the heater box and cleaning it up. Not to mention the enormous amounts of crusty foam that get left in the footwells.
Before doing the job I looked on here for a possible guide or tips and found nothing (hence I am writing this).
I found a video guide on You-tube that describes most of the process for you.
It is a pretty good video however the one thing it did miss out cost me about an hour and a half's worth of struggle. In the engine bay there are 3 nuts onto 3 studs that are connected to the heater box. Make sure to get these off before you start pulling on the thing to get it out.
The Heater box fresh out of the car
And I found the matrix to still be the original one it left the factory with which somehow hadn't exploded awfully
Obviously the matrix had a slight leak
And it left behind a reasonable amount of coolant
After a while of cleaning out the box of coolant and foam I re-foamed it and put it back in, bled the system and now had working heating that doesn't fog up the windscreen.
During the whole ordeal I discovered a broken window regulator which is Saturdays job.
Ah wow, the very first piece that I read up for the 1.8T conversion was your "Monkeys guide to 1.8ting your mk2". Through deciding the brake upgrade I just spent ages searching through old forums. I don't understand why they aren't as popular anymore.
I'll make sure to keep it updated every time something gets done.
The setup I am going to use is the 16V GTI front and rear. Some might say it is not man enough for a 1.8t however upgrading to G60's after is relatively easy should the 16V setup not be effective enough.
This post is about the front setup. 256mm discs
As I am coming from a 91 1.8 driver it is slightly easier than some options.
For the 16V front setup you will need different bearing carriers to the standard models. There are many places and cars that these carriers come from however I found a set on E-bay for £65. When changing these it is common sense to change your wheel bearings at the same time, these cost £33. Note- These bearing carriers require the 19mm Lower ball joint so if coming from pre-88 you will need this as well.
The callipers I picked up needed some work however were in relatively good condition. I layered them with paint stripper and had them back to metal in no time. A can of Anti-rust primer later they were ready to be painted. The paint I went for was the K2 Brake calliper paint as I have used it before and it performed well. I used the Frentech calliper rebuild kit and it was great, had everything needed. Note- Make sure you leave old bleed nipples in the hole and plug the brake line hole with another bolt or some tissue to ensure you don't paint your threads.
How I got them
Callipers in primer
Them completed ( Apologies for upside down photo)
The brake discs are Tarox G88 slotted discs which a local guy had for sale for £50 My brake pad choice is EBC GreenStuff brake pads which I got for £60. I chose these for practical day to day driving
I decided to go for some brake dust shields with the setup, there isn't really any reason for this I just thought why not.
When I purchased the car it came with new front wishbones. I will take this as a chance to finally get them on and leave my front setup immaculate.
So here is my 1991 Mk2 Golf 1.8 Driver. Not the perfect base for the 20VT conversion but it will work.
And here is my 2002 Mk1 Audi TT 225 BAM donor car. I Brought this car from Alex from CarThrottle with a knackered power steering pump. I am currently selling the parts off to fund the engine swap and the Mk2 overall.
Going to start a thread of my entire BAM engine swap into my mk2 1.8 Driver. There is dozens of threads that seem to cover small sections and each has various options included.
