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Messages - ChrisTyas

3
Mk2 Golf Chat / Re: MK3 Aircon into MK2 anyone got a guide?
I'll put some pics of the A/C up tomorrow, the dryer on the mk2 is bottom nearside of the condenser directly connected to the condenser.
The A/C belt from the crank double pulley has jumped off twice in the past two days, been on for months fine.
Real pita as the alternator is driven from the compressor pulley so if the A/C one jumps/snaps you lose alternator and eventually the thing grinds to a halt. Not to mention the belt is captive as it's on the inner bottom pulley (PAS/water pump is on the outer) so if it jumps it just hangs there waiting to shred itself or jam something.
Can only be that the compressor or the compressor/alternator mounting bracket has moved and it's gone out of alignment wit the crank pulley, doesn't look bad but it's dark. The amount I had to move the compressor on it's adjuster to get the belt back on is crazy so it was definitely tight.
Got three new correct belts coming from Germany and I think I've even found a 026105243A, the holy grail of belt pulleys which has the rubber shock absorber built in, mine perished and fell to pieces and I replaced with an all metal one as couldn't find the correct one at the time so that might be having a negative effect with regard the belt jumping; the shock absorbing pulley is the inner one and only for A/C models. Hopefully I get an email from the Czech Republic tomorrow..
Chris.
4
Engine & Gearbox / Re: gear linkage kit
Hi
doing any of the linkages will give an improvement but it's not too hard to do them all including the bush in the front of the gear lever bottom box which guaranteed will be like a gaping hole. The shaft that goes forward is held by this bush so it affects all movement and selection. You have to drop the front section pf the exhaust and remove the heatshield to get to it, we did it in a day, every bush, new pins, ball etc and the gearchange is effectively brand new. Make sure you clean up and properly mark the horizontal shaft where you take it out of the clamp at the back bottom of the engine bay with paint or something indelible (or scratch it), we marked it and then rubbed it off whilst cleaning and it can be a faff getting it back in the right place, took a couple of go's to get everything selecting smooth.
Makes a huge difference to driving; I'd never driven a new(ish) one so was surprised how positive and clunky it is (but really nice clunky).
Even if you just do the pin, the ball and the bushes in the bay it will be better but I'd completely recommend doing the lot for a days work. The front box bush generally isn't in the kits I don't think but it's readily available.
Chris.
6
General Chat / Re: Talk to me about compressors
You can only swap to 32 if it's a ring main. Max on single 2.5 T&E is about 26 amps so radial (daisy chain) circuits are always fused lower, you would have to follow the cables to the sockets to see what you have but I would suspect radial if it's fused at 16A.
Yeah C16 would allow more inrush startup current. Motors can pull up to 6x their full load current (normal 'loaded' running current) on startup. B MCBs are intended for mainly resistive (non inductive) domestic loads, any motor is or can be inductive (washing machine etc) but they are specifically designed for domestic applications. An industrial (non domestic) motor design doesn't care about inrush or inductance loading.
In theory if you change anything in your electrical system you are taking responsibility for it, e.g. the last guy who tested and certified it is off the hook if it goes wrong but swapping a B16 for a C16 can cause no real issues. It's just a different trip curve. You can get a D type for transformers and large machinery with huge inrush/startup currents. Also K and Z for specialist shizz:


So your compressor (or anything else) on a B16 or a C16 protected circuit will still trip the MCB if it draws more than 16A eventually. If you get a short to earth the current is going to go huge (multiple times the FLC) and either will trip instantaneously. C will let it draw up to 80A but only for 1 second then it'll trip.

Chris.
7
General Chat / Re: Talk to me about compressors
What's the MCB rating (incl. the letter)?
I guess it will be a B (i.e. B32). Change it for a C with the same FLC rating. Will allow much higher inrush current from an inductive load (5-10 times, type B is 3-5 times).
You don't need a higher FLC rating if the thing will run with that rating once started, just a different curve.
8
New Members Say Hi! / Re: RHD A/C GTI
It's either C0V or C0U, definitely a zero in the middle.
C0U would align with the tyres as you state.

It has 16" BBS RS764s with 195/45R16 so I can't tell..
581.9mm circumference; 4.3mm or 0.74% more than 577.6mm original.
Wheels are the only thing spec-wise that isn't original on it, speedo is pretty accurate.

Chris.
9
New Members Say Hi! / Re: RHD A/C GTI
Quote from: t2000 on
You may like this then https://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/clubforum/index.php?topic=845.0
Beautiful build, so much detail! The single thing that made me shudder was the coilovers, why would you do that?? I've never driven or been in a mk2 on coilovers that rode. Even very very expensive ones. My GTI and the boy's Rivage are on OE spec Bilsteins with (40mm I think) lowered Eibach springs, the Rivage has had every bush done and it rides literally like a new one but with a better stance. Not taking it away from him though such a great build. I'm still in Engineering build mode, adding stuff and fixing stuff then when it's all done it will come to pieces and go in for bodywork (it's looking tired and tatty at the mo but mechanicals are priority for me. Has to be daily driver reliable). I have a set of 'pretty common actually' 305mm Ibiza Cupra R Brembos which are a bolt on fit and a new 22.2mm master cylinder (which is what the Seat ran) with new load balancer and so much other shizz to go on. Looove that paint, can't wait to get mine done, where did he source it from in the end?
10
General Chat / Re: Talk to me about compressors
I know you're sorted now but; Bambi. Every. Time.
British made, medical quality, the budget silent range are genuinely super quiet (<40dB) and capable of breathing air quality even on the oil lubricated ones, used by majority of dentists etc across the land.
They do bigger stuff for heavy tools, they are simple, reliable and spares are readily available and they don't change the designs that often.
Got mine off eBay, changed the oil, new seal kit for the motor box and rubber feet that had perished and it literally purrs in the corner of the workshop. It's actually a pleasurable noise..
Also available in vertical configuration for space saving.
For example:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184861340440?hash=item2b0a983318:g:88cAAOSwbm5gsSUS
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133772378817?hash=item1f257482c1:g:VnIAAOSwU9RgqjV-
The 150/500 is a £1275 unit.

Chris.
12
Mk2 Golf Chat / Re: MK3 Aircon into MK2 anyone got a guide?
Hi, I've got a mk2 with factory aircon, not a great deal of direct help but maybe useful to see how they routed stuff etc.
Happy to send pics etc.
Out of interest the factory mk2 aircon airbox flaps all operate by vacuum hoses not cables.
Also the A/C cars (like the towing prepared cars) had the most powerful (250/150w) two speed fans (and two speed temp switches) and they ran on full speed whenever the A/C is switched on. Might be worth bearing that in mind.

Chris.
13
New Members Say Hi! / Re: RHD A/C GTI
2JD   sports bumpers
3AV   outer right rear view mirror: non-spherical, powered, heated
3BF   outer left rear view mirror: convex, powered, heated
3KZ   left and right sports front seat type 2
C0V   steel wheels 6J x 15 offset 45 (five-hole)
J0G   Battery 265 A (54 Ah)
Are all missing from your list, I put this together a couple of years ago mostly from here:
https://vwmk2.fandom.com/wiki/Options_Code_List
I think so can't vouch for the accuracy.

5J1 is rear spoiler
8K2 is daytime driving light mode for urban driving

That elusive 4A8 option......




15
New Members Say Hi! / Re: RHD A/C GTI
Weirdly it's not in the boot but is in the service book..
I did the exercise a while ago and, options as shown on sticker:
1AF   Power brake
1C1   antifreeze up to -25 degree celsius tolerance up to -30 degree C
1G6   space-saving spare wheel
1H1   load-sensitive proportioning valve
1MG   leather trimmed sports steering wheel with reduced diameter for power steering (hollow rim)
2JD   sports bumpers
3AV   outer right rear view mirror: non-spherical, powered, heated
3BF   outer left rear view mirror: convex, powered, heated
3D1   center console
3KZ   left and right sports front seat type 2
3L2   manual height adjustment for right frontseat
3U1   foldable trunk cover
3YB   "   door pockets, front"
8D4   With 4 Loudspeakers (Passive)
X2B   Equipment options subset for Great Britain
C0V   steel wheels 6J x 15 offset 45 (five-hole)
G0C   5-speed manual transmission
H0G   Tires 185/60 R14 H
J0G   Battery 265 A (54 Ah)
K8G   Hatchback
L0R   Right-hand drive
M3X   4-cylinder SI engine 1.8 l/82 kW DIGIFANT base engine is T3E
U0L   Instrument cluster with tachometer, clock, and mph speedometer
V0A   Tires without specification of tire brand
0A2   four doors
0NH   nameplate set "GTI"

It doesn't show anything else so I don't know how the A/C was specified at build..
It also doesn't detail the leather (just 'sports front seats') or the headlight washers (just 'sports bumpers').
It's a small bumper with the chin spoiler (currently removed).

Thanks, Chris.