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21
Engine & Gearbox / Re: 1991 1.6 Driver - Weber 32/34
Last post by Keekster64 -
Quote from: merlinuk on
In the image I posted, I showed where the metal mount meets the manifold with the rubber on top of that. The rubber looks OK but the mount is very badly split and warped. Upon searching for replacement mounts I couldn't find one that looks like my broken one, So I referred to the image of a brand new Weber 32/34 MK2 kit and the mount that I'm supposed to have looks nothing like mine... just a £90 replacement  :-[
The part that is split in that photo, is the rubber mount.  The rubber mount bolts straight onto the inlet manifold.  It looks like someone has painted over the bottom half of the rubber mount, presumably to paint the manifold.  Once you remove the carb you will be able to see it properly.  I recommend the Febi rubber mount, as it puts up with the ethanol in modern fuel better.  However, I dont think its the cause of your idle issue.
22
Engine & Gearbox / Re: 1991 1.6 Driver - Weber 32/34
Last post by merlinuk -
In the image I posted, I showed where the metal mount meets the manifold with the rubber on top of that. The rubber looks OK but the mount is very badly split and warped. Upon searching for replacement mounts I couldn't find one that looks like my broken one, So I referred to the image of a brand new Weber 32/34 MK2 kit and the mount that I'm supposed to have looks nothing like mine... just a £90 replacement  :-[
23
Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by ianmac86 -
I swapped the pump over the other day. I was hoping to see something visably wrong with the old one but other than looking old it appears ok. I did notice the breather pipe was blocked with a bolt so this needs routing correctly.


Here is the new an old pumps side by side. I might of just wasted £70 here but i'm willing to take my chances! I will hang on to the old pump for now, if my fuel issue disappears i can refit old pump to see if it returns to pinpoint the issue.


New pump in. The old clips seemed impossible to redo up so i've fitted some jubilees but will get some replacements.


i got some connectors and loom off another mk3 hoping to use to replace some of the wiring that goes to my throttle body switch and other wiring that goes past the exhaust manifold. I ordered a de-pinning tool and practiced on the off cuts and seemed pretty easy to use.


I looked at de-pinning the loom on the car but i could see this getting out of hand very quickly! So decided to cut away the damaged crispiness and join them and see how that goes

heat shrinked

and doubled insulated

i taped the loom back together and wrapped some heat resistant sheathing over to give some sort of protection

i over ordered on this as scaled price made better sense so wrapped it over the brake pipes also. there is some excess so may as well put some over the clutch line too. Probably overkill but better that nothing?


Went back round to Dan's to start replacing some bearings in the gearbox.
Some of the old bearings




Started by replacing the easier ones on the casing



We couldn't find the right puller so had to leave it there for now but hoping to get the rest of the bearing done and all built backup before the weekend so i can refit and test!






24
Engine & Gearbox / Re: 1991 1.6 Driver - Weber 32/34
Last post by Keekster64 -
If anything has broken, its most likely to be the rubber mount for the carb, which tend to split.  You can get replacements off ebay.  I prefer the Febi Bilstein one because the quality is much better.  All the parts for the carb can be bought from Web con.  https://www.webcon.co.uk/  However, I dont think a high idle would be caused by a vacuum leak.  In my experience a vacuum leak causes a car to idle lower and stall, because the extra air leans out the mixture.  Have you tried adjusting the idle?  You do this by adjusting the throttle stop which is easy to do.
25
Engine & Gearbox / 1991 1.6 Driver - Weber 32/34
Last post by merlinuk -
Hi, I recently bought a MK2 1.6 Driver which has a "Weber" carb which I have self-ID'd as a 32/34 but don't know enough to be certain. The car was having high idle issues before I purchased (1200-1500rpm) and seeing as I had never owned a MK2, would be a great idea to get into it. Here's what I found at the base of the carb after removing the filter box.



https://prnt.sc/JiLdgoK50PqI

I am assuming the piece that has cracked (and most likely the cause of my vac leak) is an adapter mount. However, when I look for a replacement online, the mount that shows up looks nothing like the one which is broken but looks more like a "FoMoCo VV" mount. Could this be why it has broken in the first place and does anybody have any more insight on whether I should even continue using the carb at all, as I could probably convert the whole car into an injection clone for the price of a new Weber - if it is not affordable or recommended to repair. Thanks for any insight.  8)
29
New Members Say Hi! / 1987 VW Golf GTI
Last post by Veruschka -
I was lucky enough to get my hands on a mk2 in fantastic condition and fitted with a 1982 Passat 2.0 16v built for 500hp!! Problem is I can’t keep up with it and it needs a rebuild. I’d like to sell it with the conversion brackets so if anyone is interested let me know!!
30
Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by ianmac86 -
Went to help strip my box down at Dan’s but hr had already beaten me to it!
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The input shaft bearing is definitely worn, which would explain the glitter in the oil. That’ll teach me for cheaping out and not having it fully rebuilt when the Quaife was fitted.
The rebuild kit arrived today, so I’m hoping to start cleaning everything up and get it back together this evening.
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Also taken delivery of my new fuel pump and I cut some sections out of a spare loom at Dan’s to repair the crispy wiring I found the other day. That should keep me busy tomorrow!
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