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81
Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by Monkey -
Have you really owned a classic car if you don't have a photo of you flipping off a part you've just removed??
82
Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by ianmac86 -
The Golf was going well until one of the not very old mk4 rear calipers decided the handbrake mech was going to seize on 🙄 i was going to order a pair but decided just to replace what was broken. Its taken enough of my money lately!

One shiny new Apec caliper. Not red like the other three corners 😅

Old one, i reckon this was from maxspeeding rods, i should have known better!


New copper washers


Did put a pressure bleeder on it but i always find i get better results having an assistant pump the pedal. Called the wife out and she slammed her coat zip in the door 😢


The handbrake cable on the same side was playing up. I did buy a pair but again thought I would opt to replace just the faulty one. It only took about 5 minutes to change so i decided to do both, which in the end proved to be a good decision. The handbrake has never felt so good.
Looks like its also seized up





The rivets on the side of the handbrake mechanism inside the car had become loose, causing the ratchet system teeth to miss each other, effectively causing the handbrake to fall down! I thought about drilling the rivets out and nutting a bolting it, but at the risk of making a bigger job, I stuck it in Dan's press and squeezed the existing rivets tight. This seems to have worked a treat.

You can see where i have previously tried to punch the rivets in an attempt to bodge it in the past.


Whilst the wheels were off I decided my multi colour tape protection on the BC's was a bit comical 🤣

Much better


I decided I had run the car in enough post headgasket so when for another oil change. Love a box of Quantum and a new genuine vw filter you can see i also temp removed spacers. I thought it wasnt catching but turns out the 1st speed bump the fronts weren't happy! I might take the angle grinder to the arches at some point because it looked so good but for now they're off


The induction kit still on here but I have now reverted back to gtd airbox


Also noticed my steering boot was split, massively underestimated this as a job 🤣




Got there eventually and car is now fully working ahead of Donington!
I've mounted a few gopro mounts so hoping to get a bit of footage. Fingers crossed for some dry weather!
83
New Members Say Hi! / Re: Idle problems MK1
Last post by pedrocaneira -
Many thanks! I am in Portugal but the car was imported...i believe from Germany in 1996. I tried the sensor you mentioned but the problem persists :(
Any other ideas?
Tks in advance
Cheers, Pedro
84
New Members Say Hi! / Re: Idle problems MK1
Last post by Monkey -
Hi Pedro,

Where abouts in the world are you from?
Reason I ask is that country dependant, VW put different engines into the golfs.
You mention that you have a 90hp injection engine.
In that period, in the UK, the only injection engines the mk2 had were the GTI engines, both over 100bhp.

However, there are a lot of similarities, for instance, the first thing I'd check would be the coolant temperature sensor.
This is (possibly) a blue sensor, usually mounted to a flange on the head where the top radiator hose is fixed.
Get the car running normally, then disconnect it, if the idle changes, it's working ok, if not, then there is a problem.
85
New Members Say Hi! / Idle problems MK1
Last post by pedrocaneira -
Greetings! I had gone through a couple shops to try to fix the unstable cold idle of my MK1 Golf Cabrio (1991), with the 1.8lt, 90HP engine.
It seemed the idle valve was the problem, I replaced it and the issue persists. A couple years ago, a technician who seemed to know a lot of the older VW Golf said he chose to leave it running well when hot and not that well while cold.
In fact, about 1:00/1:30m after starting the engine, and revving it smoothly, the Idle becomes stable and the car runs well.
Has anyone ever experienced the same issue? I believe this engine (injection) is already an MK2 gen.
Cheers, Pedro
88
Technical / Re: Cold start and associated wiring
Last post by james_nich -
On further reading I've figured it out. I remembered that some point this car had a mk3 starter fitted for more grunt. As such it only has one spade connector and I'll bet a beer that the csv isn't hooked up.
After being idle with old dirty fuel, it had no chance of firing without the help of the csv.
Jumping it did the trick amd got that new fuel in for a start.

I think I'll fit a proper 16v kr starter with the right dual spades and hook it all up properly.

In the mean time I'll track down and replace the faulty temperature senders to hopefully stop that blinking light.
89
Technical / Re: Cold start and associated wiring
Last post by james_nich -
To add, I jumped the CSV with residual fuel pressure and got it nearly going. I then jumped it fully whilst cranking and got it running pretty well after about 5 minutes. Killed the ignition and hot start was bang on.
90
Technical / Cold start and associated wiring
Last post by james_nich -
Hi everyone. I've finished sorting out my fuel filter / pump / housing issues and have achieved fuel pressure at the injectors / 5th injector rail.

I was having real trouble getting it running so started checking out the cold start side of things. I'm not hugely electrically minded so please bear with me! Strong battery with a strong crank just no fire.

The distributor needs some love and has been soaking most of the RHS of the engine in oil for a long time. Therefore a lot of the WUR and coolant sensors were very mucky. I went round and cleaned all of these connectors up and made sure all the earths were corrosion free. Still nothing.

I took out the CSV to see what it was upto. Loads of pressure at the banjo but nothing being sprayed on ignition. I jumped the CSV directly to the battery and it sprayed nicely.

Funnily enough I noticed that the coolant sensor was flashing on the dash. I earthed the red and black wire and the temperature gauge maxed out so that's working.

Am I right in thinking that the CSV could be dead because the sensor is knackered and it thinks the engine is hot and therefore not grounding the CSV circuit and giving me starting issues?

Thanks in advance, apologies if this is a bit rambling.