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Topic: Cam belt  (Read 1312 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Cam belt

Reply #1 –
Which pulley, the crank pulley?
I wondered how I'd keep it aligned when I swapped to MK3 crank pulleys. I used a bit of car paint on the old pulley and engine then noted the timing mark was in exactly the same place on both!
Thinking back afterwards I realised with 4 x crank bolts it would have been obviously 90/180/270 degrees out based on the bolt pattern if that makes sense......assuming I didn't rotate the engine after pulley removal that is.
Hope it goes well.
Can't understand why modern cars have adjustable pulleys. Seems I might be in for a bit of a 'mare doing the Caddy top-end!

Plenty of people use Tipex.
1991 Tornado Red BB 8v GTI Moredoor
2008 Skoda Octy Scout aka dirty diesel

Re: Cam belt

Reply #2 –
Non of it matters, it all times up again. What is causing concern?
Edit; I’m talking 8v 1.8.

Re: Cam belt

Reply #4 –
Get all of the tools together along with the new belt and tensioner.  Pay particular attention to the tensioner, there is a tool to turn it but two drill bits and a ring spanner will do.
Top belt cover off, plugs out, dizzy cap off and turn the engine forwards (use socket on crank sprocket bolt) to TDC, check at the crank pulley, cam sprocket and dizzy.
Crank pulley off and lower belt cover off, check intermediate shaft and crank pulley timing marks align, put the crank pulley back on with a couple of bolts to check then remove again
Tensioner and old belt off
Fit new tensioner finger tight. I then fit the belt over the tensioner over the cam then onto the intermediate shaft without moving the intermediate shaft timing, then onto the crank.
Set belt tension. check all timing marks, turn it over twice by hand and check all timing marks again.  Job done, put it all back together.

Re: Cam belt

Reply #5 –
Quote from: Eddypeck on
Just one of those jobs I’m nervous about getting wrong. Or getting stuck, as in not being able to undo something I suppose.

I’ve managed a lot over recent years and got more and more adventurous so I think I just need to do it and get over it
I have just done this on a MK3 and felt the same as you about it. It was much easier than I expected. Just go slow and double check as you go. Just as PWaddy says above. The only issue I had was one of the crank pulley bolts was so tight the Allen insert rounded off. Had to hammer a spline bit in and that worked thankfully. Those crank pulley bolts aren't supposed to be that tight!
Phil
All sorts of stuff done, lots more to do!

Re: Cam belt

Reply #6 –
As PWardy said, just double check the bolts are tight and turn it over a few times.
If you have any issues, it'll stop dead and you go back to timing it up.

First time I did a cam belt, it was part of a head swap, 3 days before I was due to take it to the first Ultimate Dubs (please don't judge me!), must have turned that engine over a dozen times before I was brave enough to fire it up!
Mk2 Driver
Mk2 Silver 8v
Corrado G60 Turbo
Mk2 Red 8v
Mk2 Grey 16v
Mk2 BBM ABF
Bora 20vt
Mk2 Green VR6
Mk2 Green ABF
Mk2 BBM 20vt
3.2 TT Roadster
Mk2 Red 16v
225 TT Coup
3.2 TT Coup
Mk4 Anniversary
Mk7 Red GTI Performance
Mk2 Red GTI Restoration
Mk2 BBM R32
911 Carrera 4S

Re: Cam belt

Reply #7 –
Hi guys,

Would anyone be able to recommend what brands to use for timing belts?

Here is a list of the brands listed on AutoDoc's website:

The brands which I already know are decent and seem to offer an actual kit as oppose to just a belt:
Bosch
ContiTental
Dayco
Delphi
Febi
Gates
INA
JP Group
Lucas
Magnet Merelli
Metzger - they seem to list one but as a Dayco unit.
Ridex
SKF

These are other brands which are listed on the AutoDoc website for the part, I have no information on about the quality of them:
ASHIKA
FLENNOR
HUTCHINSON
FAI AutoParts
AUTOKIT
AE
JAPKO
MAPCO
OPTIBELT
SWAG
SNR
STARK
QUINTON HAZELL
TRUCKTEC AUTOMOTIVE
RUVILLE
JAPANPARTS
TRISCAN

If anyone could please advise on what brands they say are fine to use, I would be much appreciated!

Re: Cam belt

Reply #8 –
To be honest, I'd happily fit almost any of the ones in your top list, though as a rule I tend to go for Gates units as I believe they are used as an OEM.
Mk2 Driver
Mk2 Silver 8v
Corrado G60 Turbo
Mk2 Red 8v
Mk2 Grey 16v
Mk2 BBM ABF
Bora 20vt
Mk2 Green VR6
Mk2 Green ABF
Mk2 BBM 20vt
3.2 TT Roadster
Mk2 Red 16v
225 TT Coup
3.2 TT Coup
Mk4 Anniversary
Mk7 Red GTI Performance
Mk2 Red GTI Restoration
Mk2 BBM R32
911 Carrera 4S

Re: Cam belt

Reply #9 –
Here's what I got when I asked my professional mechanic friends the same question....



INA kits I've fitted have been very nice, only used a few Dayco and they were good.

I don't like Gates so much anymore, no instructions supplied like they used to, when I've done Ford belts where every pulley is keyless the gates kits haven't included new camshaft sprocket bolts but the INA kits have.

INA is OE spec - and kits come with all the bolts - even the bolts look super quality.

"INA is a premium product" - kit of choice for us at our workshop.

When there are multiple fitment options, INA give you a choice of bottom pulley bolts. For VAG applications INA kits give you both size of tensioner stud as well.

I would go direct to TPS and get the proper VW kit (probably INA)

I would rate any genuine INA, Gates, or Dayco as all being pretty good - they are all good quality, and all seem to offer "basic" and "comprehensive" options across their respective ranges. The only way to be sure that you are getting all the bits you need is to check the illustrations and the small-print carefully.

Gates and Dayco were in stiff competition with one another for a long time for each engine design that was coming out of EU designers, but their specialism is in the belts, whereas INA is a tensioner and bearing OEM supplier, so you takes your choice......

.....and I doubt any of these three would put their name on anything inferior, given that I have worked alongside all three of the UK arms of these companies in the past - all very professional companies.
 

Re: Cam belt

Reply #10 –
I've done it a few times, and I'm a nervous type.  The hardest part is actually removing the allen headed bolts from the pulley if some a*rse has previously over tightened them.  They should only be torqued to 15ftlbs, which ain't much.   If they are done up too tight there is a big risk of rounding them out.  To loosen them I use a tight fitting allen headed socket from my impact driver set.  If you round them out you can use a sharp chisel to hammer them round.  Fit new ones if they are worn at all, and dont over tighten.  All the other elements of the job are covered in the Haynes manual.  Before you remove the old belt get a feel for the amount of tension, you should be able to twist it slightly beyond 90 degrees with firm pressure.  If you can only just reach 90 degrees with finger pressure its too tight.