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Topic: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos (Read 5423 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #45 –
Quote from: MJA on
I just want to perfect it a little further and give the underside a good going over and protect it where any underseal may have flacked away etc.
Careful, you are about to disappear down a mK2 rabbit hole. Started this job about 6 months ago. Every stud, jacking points, every stone strike, then there are the arches needs cleaning back to bare metal, rust converting, painting and sealing.
The resulting job will preserve the car for many more years though.

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #46 –
Quote from: PWardy on
Quote from: MJA on
I just want to perfect it a little further and give the underside a good going over and protect it where any underseal may have flacked away etc.
Careful, you are about to disappear down a mK2 rabbit hole. Started this job about 6 months ago. Every stud, jacking points, every stone strike, then there are the arches needs cleaning back to bare metal, rust converting, painting and sealing.
The resulting job will preserve the car for many more years though.

I second the motion, I was just going to 'tidy up' my red one.

And now I'm zinc plating wheel arch bolts!
Mk2 Driver
Mk2 Silver 8v
Corrado G60 Turbo
Mk2 Red 8v
Mk2 Grey 16v
Mk2 BBM ABF
Bora 20vt
Mk2 Green VR6
Mk2 Green ABF
Mk2 BBM 20vt
3.2 TT Roadster
Mk2 Red 16v
225 TT Coup
3.2 TT Coup
Mk4 Anniversary
Mk7 Red GTI Performance
Mk2 Red GTI Restoration
Mk2 BBM R32
911 Carrera 4S

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #47 –
There in lies the problem tidy one bit up and it makes the rest look shabby.
scs

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #48 –
Some wit once said “success is the reward of anyone who looks for trouble”.

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #49 –
I know I am terrible. I can't leave flaking underseal unprotected.

This car has had a couple of jacking points and parts on the sill. They are in primer though so I want them protected properly with stonechip and some colour. I've already wirewheeled and repaired a couple of pathces in the inner rear arches. Other areas needing attention:

- bit of flaky at the back of the floorpan seam and I've already repaired each arch.
- driver side suspension turret seam needs a new patch welding in, strut will need to be removed. I can do that no probs.
- Drop the rear beam, refurb it and install new brakes et all

Fortunately the front subframe is new, as is everything connected to it but I need to drop it slightly to install an ARB and do the exhuast. I think there is a bit of flacky underseal around mounts so will repair it all as well. I have looked at ETKA and can't see a different part number being listed.

I will refrain from disturbing any underseal that is doing its job but will wire wheel back to clean metal the suspect areas. Well aware all sorts can be hiding under "good" underseal but I need to be pragmatic about it.

.... so it begins!

Also dropping off the fuel distribution unit and warm up regulator to KMI for a refurb and increase flow to support the 2.0 engine. Question here - I bought a spare fuel distributor unit to drop off, it is from an earlier 16v, does anyone know if it's the same unit as on the later 16v? It looks the same but part number sticker no good for reading.

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #50 –
Are you using any rust temover/convertor to stop rust creep under the new top coat?
Rustbuster and Bilt Hambler get great reviews.
1991 Tornado Red BB 8v GTI Moredoor
2008 Skoda Octy Scout aka dirty diesel

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #51 –
I usually wire wheel to clean as much as possible. If welding is required I do that (and make sure I paint behind the repair too). I then carry out the following:

Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 converter - leave for 24hrs, apply 2nd coat, leave for 24hrs
Epoxy primer
If welding has happened I now seam seal (theory is the epoxy primer will have got into the low spots better than the sealer)
Epoxy primer again
Stonechip layer - I've been using Gravitex

Depending on what's happening next I either brush on some colour or I leave it and apply a dinitrol 4941 coating (with a dinitrol wax layer applied first as a primer).

I prefer epoxy primers over etch as epoxy is not porous.

I have also used a 2 part epoxy from Rust Busters as well - seems to be a good product when working underneath the car.

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #52 –
My mk3 is taking way longer than I had expected halting progress on the mk2. Every bolt rusted on the front wishbones, hubs etc etc. All cut off the car and sourcing some parts next weekend. Found recently the fuel cap and metal part around the neck had corroded away preventing the cap fitting (or coming off once fitted) so needs a new fuel tank too.

I try to work on one car at a time but got fed up with the Mk2 being in air. I put on it's new wheels, adjusted the suspenion upwards but got it too high on the front and took for a spin in my little village. I've also fitted the new seats but there is a lot to do to make the car really nice. Exhaust not straight and the splitter i think is beyond repair as no way join the two pieces?

MOT is up in March so trying not to take it apart before getting a new ticket on it.



Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #53 –
Mk2 out on the road. MOT due next month. I hadn't taken it out as the cambelt tensioner kept loosing tension. I bought a new auto tensioner (ABF block in this one) and found it came with a spring washer and nut. The tensioner on the car just had a plain old washer. This appears to have fixed my issue.





A little list of jobs, some needed for the MOT

MOT
Washer jets or motor not working
Headlight alignment off
Tidy up rear beam as a bit flaky to avoid corroision commentry

Others
Lost a thread on 1x rear wheel bolt (new discs will solve that). Arguably MOT but nut holds but won't torque enough...
Install new front splitter
Refurbish the rear beam
Speedo and mileage not working
Raised it up too much - 15mm lower at the front and 5mm at the back is needed I think
Alignment
Re-wrap engine bay wires
Fit heatshield on bulkhead to protect wires
Fit splash guard for pulleys
Fit boot turret carpet
Fit door membranes
Waterproof back of door cards with PVA mix
Straighten back box
There is an airleak somewhere on the inlet manifold - I think - can hear it suck when you rev in the engine bay in that area. Might be why the idle is a bit high.
Fit ARB (it was missing)
Coolant leak on pipe to heater matrix
Gasket or whatever is needed for rocker cover as leaking - same on my mk3 actually as well.
Get a proper front number plate

Get it to Stealth for a rolling road tune up and once over.

Bodywise - pretty good. Will eventually need some wings (cut by prior owner for big wheels), scuttle work and the rear arches were rolled so will get them put back to stock and avoid painting the quarters I hope.









Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #54 –
Quote from: PWardy on
Quote from: MJA on
I just want to perfect it a little further and give the underside a good going over and protect it where any underseal may have flacked away etc.
Careful, you are about to disappear down a mK2 rabbit hole. Started this job about 6 months ago. Every stud, jacking points, every stone strike, then there are the arches needs cleaning back to bare metal, rust converting, painting and sealing.
The resulting job will preserve the car for many more years though.

Yep I have ended up down that path! I've been fannying about with it tidying the car but got to point of sod this let's just do the job I wanted to do in the first place.



Parts off for blasting and coating. Some are mk3 as have gone to town a bit on that too



Note no subframe in the pics - the mk2 has an ABF block under the KR K jet. The engine sits too high on the throttle body so after lots of looking around I've concluded I need a mk3 subframe in there as it does sit lower that side and you are also able to cut, say, 20mm out of the bush that too if still struggling. That frame en route to join the above.

The plan is to take the engine out, paint engine pay, tidy wires etc and do it right.

First though it will have swap places with the red mk3 (in garage).

I have also ordered 2 x panels for that carport to enclose into a garage so need to hurry up and get it on 4 wheels temporarily to move it out way, concrete the floor etc. Fun Fun.



Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #55 –
Very happy with how these components turned out - thanks to Bury Farm Parts in Bedfordshire.

They looked terrible when i dropped them off. He even found the OEM stickers for each as well.

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #56 –
Some pics of before





After - detail on the alternator

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #57 –
They do look good could be new.

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #58 –
They look amazing.

If you don't mind, how much did he charge/how long did it take to get them back?
Mk2 Driver
Mk2 Silver 8v
Corrado G60 Turbo
Mk2 Red 8v
Mk2 Grey 16v
Mk2 BBM ABF
Bora 20vt
Mk2 Green VR6
Mk2 Green ABF
Mk2 BBM 20vt
3.2 TT Roadster
Mk2 Red 16v
225 TT Coup
3.2 TT Coup
Mk4 Anniversary
Mk7 Red GTI Performance
Mk2 Red GTI Restoration
Mk2 BBM R32
911 Carrera 4S

Re: Matt's Mk2 16v Oakie + other occasional VW cameos

Reply #59 –
It was £300 and he would have done it in a week but had issues with the casing of the PAS pump requiring a replacement.

Edit to add he sources electronic parts from all over Europe and always tries to find OEM parts or decent branded like Bosch. Has a proper test bench as well.