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Topic: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off (Read 2398 times) previous topic - next topic

Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Hi,

We've all been there right :) I'm struggling with 3 nuts that used to hold the stone guard on the rear of the front discs. What methods are tried and tested on getting these out?

So far I have tried

Welding a nut to the top (didn't work but maybe because my nuts are coated though)
Cut slots in them
Banging a smaller socket ontop (crumbled)
Loads of wd40



What other methods do you do? Wasted a good 2 hours now :D

Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #1 –
You could try drilling through the bolt very risky unless you drill square and central. If you drill slightly undersize and then run a tap through to clean the threads.
scs

Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #2 –
I hate doing the drilling. Did it once and ended up on the pish and lost the thread too... is there a proper method? Undersized drill bit and increased diameter?

Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #3 –
Have to  say its very hard to get right. The only other way would b to remove the carrier and take it to an engineering firm and see if they can do it maybe by spark erosion. Probably cost less to replace the whole lot.
scs

Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #4 –
If it's that stuck I expect it will snap before coming lose.

Drilling from the other side maybe easier. Centre punch and the small drill bit going up a size until and the clear threads with a tap.

Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #5 –
Thanks guys, I think having had a few wines this evening I've concluded those bloody hubs need to come off the car so they can be worked on the bench instead. I will try the drilling and will do as you say and go from behind - I just have to make sure I don't go a bigger diameter than the bolt otherwise rather than tapping I'll have to helicoil which will be more kit I have to buy!

This hub is actually the mk3 16v which is 5x100. I've seen on ebay tonight you can buy complete hubs with new bearings pressed in for 4x100 for £138  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164399409948?fits=Model%3AGolf&hash=item2646f7eb1c%3Ag%3Aj6kAAOSwAS1ff4aU.

 Since I want to change my bearings as well that would be a great option but not available on the 5x100. Might be useful for others reading though.

Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #7 –
Heat and mole-grips?
I have read that trying to tighten a bolt before loosening can break the rusty bond.
If you took the hub off you could grind them flat and use the new backing plate as a template to drill pilot holes which should be properly centred. Then a slightly smaller "easy-out" reverse thread may do the biz.
I don't have any backing plates behind the disks for the same reason.
1991 Tornado Red BB 8v GTI Moredoor
2008 Skoda Octy Scout aka dirty diesel

Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #8 –
Have had to deal with this one, problem with a MK2 is it is not possible to get anything directly over the head of the screws due to the drive flange.  Considering the state it is in:
1. cold chisel and big hammer.  Get good bite on head by striking directly at the head edge then change the chisel angle to turn the thread and hit it again.  Not too hard, like an impact gun would hit it.
2. heat it cherry hot (don't melt that ABS sensor) then back at it with the chisel and hammer.
3. remove hub, pull the drive flange and bearings, grind screw head flat, center pop and drill out from front (tried from back and for some reason the bit ran slightly out).  If you are good enough, I think just one of mine was, clean with tap.  If you are not quite good enough coil the threads.
I took the opportunity to clean everything up while I was there: 



Unusual for the MK2 I used stainless screws to refit:



When a hammer and chisel works:

Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #9 –
Confidence inspiring PWardy :)

I've got one side off the car but driveshaft seized solid. I also found a helicoil kit i must have bought years ago too.

Haven't managed to get the passenger side off - driveshaft again sezied to hub but disconnected from gearbox. The issue on the passenger side is the bolt that mounts the front bush on the wishbone is just spinning the bush and not backing out. I've tried all sorts - heat, impact gun, leverage on bolt. I've purchased and air saw to hopefully cut it out.

The car is putting up a fight!

Having to spend a bit more money on parts - everything is seized so renewing everything. Bearings, track rods, ball joints, wishbones, driveshafts. Joy. And this isn't even the mk2. I was hoping this mk3 would be a quick job since it is sub 80k to get out the way so I can work on my mk2.


Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #11 –
Cheers PWardy haven't been back on here for a bit - for £16 I've bought that to get me out of jail. I also decided to raid the penny jar and buy a freestanding 20t press. I have been eyeing them up for years for bearings etc.

I'm side tracked on the spinning bolt, The bolt for the front wishbone mount is corroded/fused inside the metal sleeve of the bush. The bush is so perished it spins in the wishbone when undoing. I thought no bother just cut either end so I bought an airsaw to cut the ends off but it's cheap crap or my aircompressor is not strong enough to run it (50l 9.6CFM) - the saw jsut stops when resistance is met. I then remembered I had a multitool but have blunt my remaining metal blade.

I only go out for an hour here and there. I've had Covid for 2 weeks and anymore than that I am knackered.

Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #13 –
Does look good that SGS one but out of my budget, I bought this one the other day

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313453241660

It was delivered last night and I hope to build it today

Re: Tried and tested methods of getting stubborn nuts off

Reply #14 –
Oh I didn't pay that much for it.  Had it about four years, it was much cheaper.  Paid for itself a couple of times over.
What you have will fit your bearings etc no problem.  You will need something like this to make full use of it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284354587584?epid=4011591923&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4234daabc0:g:JHAAAOSwypJg3WtX&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4PCPYbfN5HrzPrSlRV0Cu95EE3u9rP3ouF7swlMVa%2B4i76EovCcYsn0xqO0LfJX98X0W3Dmg%2B0bF9q9MbKuXeMO%2B8Xi9vnI%2B3gfdVH3Nxm5eZpVmlN7kjCXb7PBahJ2%2B7%2FhVqDvklytaSeaUpQLA0mqgrAMM2%2Bj0%2Bq%2FtpYOuIkAI7KsWbWx%2FX28K4R0S29pc3I%2BEK6tk%2BAA2XugwkeGwNGpcN5knw%2B9BCZd3iCWNH3aLBdNA9%2F6UuM%2BWuWC7l2h6Dxz1y4EfOTxA2rj6ZPjmK7hYtE6STjH2jYwtrevlGPdV%7Ctkp%3ABFBM2uuiw71f