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Topic: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6 (Read 8913 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #15 –
Quick update, not many photos but plenty of writing.

Put a hockey puck under the front engine mount to try and pull the sump away from the subframe. However one puck is too much as now the bonnet hits the inlet manifold.  :roll:
 
Went crazy with heat blanket, as now I'm paranoid about things catching fire after reading about a local lads MK1 cabby going up in smoke. Wrapped up the steering boot and also the gear cables. Bit messy but id rather me safe than sorry.



Plumbed in the cooling system. It's a crazy concoction of pipes from 4 different cars but it appears to work. Plumbed in the power steering system too.  Coolant is leaking from 2 places, power steering is not leaking but is whining pretty bad.



I let the engine get as hot as I dared. (About half on the gauge) I don't have the fans wired in yet.

Seems to be idling weirdly high at the moment. Also desperate to buy the rest of the exhaust. Need to remake a few brake pipes before it moves on its own.

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #16 –
So got. A few bits done.



I'm thinking of having a redesign of the intake system as I don't think there's enough pipe between the MAF and the air filter to allow the air to smooth out before it hits the MAF.

I've bled the brakes twice and they are still spongy. Clutch is spot on however.

But it did move under its own steam, albeit very loudly (it only has a downpipe on) and all the neighbours gave me dead eye.


Made a loom with relay from the slimline fans it's nothing fancy but seems to get the job done for the moment just single speed to keep everything simple.



My biggest frustration at the moment is that I seem to have an issue with the engine. Firstly it idles pretty high, around 1050rpm according to vcds. It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold that's what it will do. Also when I rev it it seems to hang onto them, and take ages to get back to tickover. I've been going over the vacuum system looking for leaks but I haven't found anything yet. I wondered if I might have been a bit too forceful when cleaning the throttle body before I put it on . It's confusing, everything I read says that the idle should be erratic if it's a vac leak but mine is smooth, just a bit high. :thinking:

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #17 –
So this part was when rubjonny suggested wiring in a clutch and brake switch to try and sort my idling issues...

Haven't received a reply from the loom guy yet but I appear to have the wires present on the ECU end.

White and red on pin 39


Yellow and white on pin 55


I guess this is right? I've never had to find pins on an ECU plug  :lol: I didn't see red/black on pin 56.

So it's as simple as following this now I've found them?

Quote
Clutch switch:
blue/black - ignition live
red/white - to ecu

Brake switch:
red/brown - original brake switch red/yellow
black/red - original brake switch black/red
blue/black - ignition live
yellow/white - to ecu

Apart from I could just ground the brake switch yellow and white wire instead of running wires to the brake switch?

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #18 –
So I finally managed do the wiring that rubjonny suggested and it partially fixed my problems. The engine no longer holds onto its revs when you rev it, But it's still idling just a tad high. I'm thinking it might be because it hasn't had various things mapped out yet, but I guess I'll just have to live with it for the moment.




Incidentally filling the ears out on the pedal box was a pig of a job  :confused:

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #19 –
Sunday was Trackslag day! Went for 2.5" offset single tip with the performance backbox.
Fits perfect and sounds awesome.



https://youtu.be/JV3gZIvZ_wk

Car is a bit smoky until fully warm though  :thinking:

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #20 –
Things are still ticking over with this when I can. The daily has needed quite a bit of attention over the past few months so things have slowed here.

I've mostly hit snags that I don't know how to fix. For example, I bled the brake system, they work but not very good and even after putting a litre of fluid through them they are still spongy. The revs seem to jump up if keep pressing the brake pedal. (which I don't know if it's good or not)

Aand it's still idling at 1040rpm. No more. No less.
Thinking lambdas.

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #21 –
Right there's a lot of pictures to add here. Ill try and keep them chronological.

Firstly chopped the top off the 02J shifter tower so I could tap the shaft for a MK2 style gear knob. A job i'm not rushing to do again.  I really wanted to run the same one as I had in the 1.3 Its not particularly pretty but is sentimental.



My AP's turned up. I got them out of the box and stared at them for a little while, they are stunning.


I built them up on to MK3 topmounts which was a little challenge getting everything in the correct order. Went with Lemforder items cause people seem to say they are good quality.


The MK2 mounts were well and truley shot. One of them fell apart as I took the old strut out  :lol:


New Lambdas to try and sort this high idle out. It didn't, but it does run much smoother, isn't over fuelling so needed them really.


Popped those little battery adaptors on to stop it sliding about. Some may notice the part number, yes its a MK6 battery, but hey it was free.


Got a few rust spots that need welding. I have borrowed my mates welder and im gonna do it. The issue is i've never welded in my life, so will see what happens.




Ended up finishing Sunday trying to put as much of the dash back in. Ignore the horrific fighter jet switch, I was a different person back when i thought that was a good idea.  :lol:


I did some other boring stuff that I didn't take pictures of, fuel filter and remade the Brake servo vacuum pipe out of nylon pipe.

So at the moment i'm getting closer and closer to getting the big red turd back on the road. Sending the V5 back to the DVLA to update the cars details and my to do list is slowly getting smaller. I'll get there one day.

Bonus picture of the daily which seems to eat parking sensors for some reason.  :roll:  :lol:  :cool:

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #22 –
8 bloody years I've had this car. 8 years I've thought there was a wiring issue with the rear fog light. Ive bought 3 fog light switches, thinking it was the switch but it didn't fix it. Every year for the MOT id take a feed from the fusebox and bodge a temporary fix to get me through... Until now when I decided I would conquer it for once and all.
 


Being a pov spec Golf, I should have had a jumper wire in relay 7 on the fusebox. But some wise soul in the past had removed the jumper from the fuse box. £7 later and a number 53 relay bish bash bosh. The first time I've ever seen the switch light up.

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #23 –
Still on with this.

Done lots of little bits over the past couple of months. I've remade a rear brake pipe. Fitted 4 Rainsport 3s, refitted the arch liners, put the dash completely back together. All sorts.
 
Unfortunately the car is already breaking itself and it's not officially got off the drive yet. Last week the starter went. I've replaced that tonight and now its running funny, doing weird idling and running rich. Like it did basically before I replaced the MAF and Lambdas. Hope it's not those cause I can't be bothered to pay out again.

So heres a pic dump of random stuff.





Had a spot of corrosion right at the front of my sills. Luckily it appears I've just caught it in time. I used Deox gel to get into the nooks and crannies. It took probably 6 applications to get it all out but sorted it and now its coated in a nice think layer of epoxy mastic

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #24 –
BOOM  :cool:



No advisories either. Waiting for the DVLA to mess around with my V5, get insured and then i'm good to go.

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #25 –


Finally! The Golf has been on the road since Thursday, done around 100 miles so far. The thing is an animal and the sound it makes is insane! Had a coolant leak but checked the hoses and all the clamps needed tightening. Revs are hanging quite a bit which is annoying as it makes it difficult to change gear. Overall absolutely chuffed tho.  :D  :cool:

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #26 –
Up to 500 miles with the new engine. Been doing bits and bobs but nothing crazy interesting.



Today swapped over my old battered sump to a new R32 one, this also meant swapping the oil pump. Here are a few pics from the swap.

Before with the patched up sump


Sump and oil pump off


Side by side of the oil pumps. You can see the pickup is longer on one than the other.



4motion pan left, R32 Pan Right.


R32 sump is baffled inside


End result, pan sits about level with the subframe, no need to worry about speed bumps.


Golf was also on DIY duty this morning for a friend, I don't think we could draw anymore attention to ourselves if we tried! :roll:


Ordered a new radio and that will be the next job when I have a weekend free. Starting fresh so will be running new wires all round.

Currently got 2 massive issues that are doing my head in and i'm struggling with.

1st.
Its still idling high. It doesn't hunt, but where it idles does vary. I think this also ties in with problems i'm having with the revs hanging after you come of the throttle. Changing gears is a nightmare. One thing i've noticed is that when the car is cold, this problem doesnt seem to occur.

So far i've tried:
Tried 3 different MAFs
Replaced the MAF plug
New Lambdas
Spaced MAF further from airfilter
Isolated brake servo from intake
Checked the vac pipes more times than I count.
New coolant temp sensor
Wired in a clutch switch

Ultimately i've come to realise that the ECU is probably upset that its no longer in a MK4 Golf and needs mapping. I think ill probably send it off to Stealth for them to work their magic because i'm fed up of it now.

2nd
I've got a knock. It seems to come from under my feet and happens when i'm turning braking or when I come off the throttle. Another one I cant find. I've torqued every bolt I can see and its still happening. The only thing left to change is a ARB clamp that I have stripped the thread on.

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #27 –
Still having problems with the revs hanging and it idling high, so i revisited the clutch and brake switch wiring.

Quote from: rubjonny
any codes logged in vagcom? also have you checked clutch and brake switch in ecu measuring blocks?

Here are my fault codes. Nothing jumps out at me here
9 Faults Found:

18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
            P1649 - 35-00 - Missing Message from ABS Controller
18058 - Powertrain Data Bus
            P1650 - 35-00 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster
17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
            P1426 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299)
            P1433 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
            P1432 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17530 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B2 S2
            P1122 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17526 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S2
            P1118 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17606 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heater Circuit: B1 S2
            P1198 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17607 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heater Circuit: B2 S2
            P1199 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction

For the clutch switch
In "group 66" field 2 I have 1101


So currently the car thinks;
1 = CCS active in ECM
1 = Clutch Depressed (always 0 in Auto. Trans.)
0 = Brake Not Depressed(brake pedal switch)
1 = Brake depressed (brake light switch)

So, the car thinks the clutch pedal is down. Not sure about brake pedal currently?

After this I tested the clutch switch, its fubared. The numbers dont change when the plunger is pressed. The number does change however when you unplug it and it goes to a 0, so at least the wiring to the ECU is correct. I tested the switch with the multi-meter too, it looks like its got stuck "on" as the multi-meter showed continuity.

So after all this i've gone back through this thread and realised i've misunderstood what rubjonny said about the brake and clutch switch. I didn't realise I needed both! I'm still currently using the MK2 brake switch so ive ordered a MK4 one and will wire it in, along with getting a new clutch switch. Hopefully after all this my woes will be solved  :thumbs: If not, im setting it on fire.  :evil:  :lol:

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #28 –
Just a quick pic dump here.

I put a new ARB clamp on at the weekend to try and sort the bang out but its still doing it. Have a feeling its the rear bolt that goes through the wishbone. I don't actually think the captive nut has broken free because I can still torque it up, but when i came to undo it, it came out super easy which makes me wonder if the bolt had bottomed out. The very end of the bolt had witness marks on it too. When I looked at the parts diagrams the MK3 item is longer than the MK2 one by 5mm. Which makes me wonder if I ordered the MK3 one and the bolt is bottoming out not allowing the sub frame to be fully tight. Ordered MK2 ones so will see what happens.

Had a quick look at wiring for cruise control.





All seems hunky dory however there should be a pin and wire in no 56 however there is nothing. There also should be pins in all of the ports regardless so it would appear someone has been here before.  :confused:

Re: 1.3CL 86' to 2.8 24v V6

Reply #29 –
So here's where we were before.

Heres the old bolt and the new one from VW Heritage. You can see the witness marks on the end of the old bolt. I swapped it and it seems to have got rid of my braking thud but I still have a little clunk when turning. I still need to replace the passenger side bolt. I ordered 2 and only 1 appeared. Typical!




Finally got a radio in. Its nothing special, but does have bluetooth! I re-did all the wiring for this so at last its nice and tidy. As a common theme for this car, the dash has been hacked to pieces in the past, presumably to get a previous radio in. That means that the support is missing from the back and as a result my new one flaps about on bumpy roads  :roll:



While the weather was bad and i'd managed to wangle a spot in the garage I took a look at a patch of rust on the back passenger corner. I didn't think it was that bad, but the occasional weekend drive out over the winter seems to have took its toll. I buzzed it with the wire wheel. B******s, it went through! Decided to give it a coat of Hydrate 80 and then managed to fill the hole with chemical metal. Janky I know, but this isn't intended to be a permanent fix. Few coats of primer and a bit of Halfords finest Tornado Red and it'll do for now.




Doesn't look so bad from 5 foot.



Finally managed to get rid of the plastic intake tube which made the air filter sit at a daft angle, and had an alloy pipe made up. I took the opportunity to get a massive ridiculous air filter. I’ll paint the pipe black eventually. The engine cover rubs with the bonnet down, which is a shame as it hides a lot of tat.



Finally today I got around to fitting the cruise control. I went through 4!!!! Clutch switches before I managed to fit one without breaking it. It is imperative that the ears you file out of the pedal box to fit the MK4 switch are straight. The brake switch flew in without any issues. Working methodically I added one wire at a time to the ecu plug, testing with VCDS to confirm everything was hunky dory. Fitting it was uneventful and it worked first time.



That’s as far as I am at the moment. The engine is still playing up, the clutch switch has fixed the revs hanging issue when changing gear but it’s still idling high. Something that seems to have started happening since I sorted is say I pull up to a junction the idle revs are high and slowly start to increase. I’ve noticed if I put the clutch pedal down the revs drop and seem to settle around 960rpm. Sometimes it will stay about there and then other times it will slowly creep back up. Sometimes to 1200rpm, sometimes higher. I need to drive it a bit more and try and figure out a pattern as to when this is happening.

I’d like to sort the chains out soon. I’m trying to figure out whether I need to do them before the national meet or if I can wait till next winter. They are a little noisy until the engine is warm but once up to temp they are barely audible. At the moment I’ll take it as it comes and keep an ear to the engine bay. I’m hoping I’ll be able to maybe install a longer 5th gear and an LSD when everything is out.

I’m also planning to do a coolant flush and put on a new header tank, install fog lights/driving lights and also redo all the membranes in the doors because every time it rains I have to remember my wellies when I go for a drive.