Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD July 16, 2020, 03:40:39 PM Right so bear with as the first few posts are copy and pasted from the old forum, starting from when I first took the golf off of the road as prior to that, all I had done was taken a standard 8V GTI, blew the engine up, dropped a 16v engine in, spun the bottom end bearings, replaced the engine for one with a trashed head, bolted a new head on and it never started again.. so I decided to rip it apartSome posts may be out of context but the timeline will still fit... this starts in January 2014I started this project when I was about 18 so some of the “earlier” methods and approaches were a bit terrible, but it’s all been a learning curve, I have no background in mechanics or engineering as I worked in a leisure centre for many years and now work front line for the ambulance Service, everything you see here is self taught, I have failed, learnt, failed and learnt some more so if you have any doubt in your skills or tools.. when I started this build I had a 24 piece socket set, 4 screw drivers, a hammer, a dodgy Halfords jack and some odd sized Allen keys.. and a few years down the line I’m aiming for a 600+ VR6T converted to 4WD Last Edit: September 17, 2020, 08:21:23 PM by L14M
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #1 – July 16, 2020, 03:50:35 PM I found myself a garage and started stripping it down, dash and looms removed, labeling as I was going, there's nothing on it now apart from the running gear and steering rack, on taking it apart I realised it had rusted out quite badly, I started to think about selling it for a new shell but after some quick texts, my mates dad is welding it upThe suspension turret on the drivers side front is being seam welded along a hairline rupture in the paint, just to be safe, the bulkhead is being cut and a plate welded in, passenger sills, front, rear, inner and outer are being rewelded, along with a new rear passenger arch, the drivers side rear putter sill has a hole through it, the rear valance and boot panel are rotted through, with very bad previous repair.. Literally a bit of filler and spray.. As soon as i can find someone to trailer it to his work it'll be going in for the welding..But anywho.. The new heart of the car, 2.8 VR6 OBD1..I bought this off of a bloke in Wales, turned up for him to say it's a bare block.. Aswell as saying he hadn't taken out the Ecu or loom, subframe or running gear, Wasn't happy.So after examining it we took it back home, then realised how much we actually needed, it was on the cards to be sold for a donor, but after a cheeky look on eBay, I found a full CE2 loom for sale, uncut.. Purchased.Then a phone call to my friend to say someone at his work has a OBD1 VR breaking! Bargain, all of the parts I was missing were all being collected! All of the below apart from the manifold were needed..Nowhere on eBay or forums had them, lucky me!It's not in the best state either, still needing the running gear and the gearbox, it's racking up to be a lot!New ally pulleys, cams, stage 2 clutch and a budget rebuild is on the cardsI luckily picked up a hydro pedal box from volksmania, along with the master cylinder and reservoir, already cut and welded..All for £60!
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #2 – July 16, 2020, 04:12:02 PM I sold the old VR engine after thinking the guy who sold it to me was a bit dodgey, told the seller but he didn't mind cause he was rebuilding it! And the fact that there was way too many parts required and would of cost me a bomb.. So I got this! 80k automatic engine, will be converting it to manual though, it has everything bar the loom, picked it up for £160!I have some shiney bits too go on too, and some vibratechnics to keep it solidI also met a guy on the Facebook page selling parts, he's only over Rhondda so it's not to far for me, he's really fair with his prices and has a lot of stuff I needed! Two trips up and back over two months got me:Eibach ARB'sMint dashElectric windowsElectric mirrorsCentral lockingWhole VR6 running gearPowerflex steering rack bushesSingle wiper conversionAnd little other bits...It didn't break the bank either!I ordered some Powerflex bushes to complete it all, they turned up along with about a million other packages, mostly bolts, tools and little fittingsI got on with painting the subframe and wishbones as soon as the weather sorted itself out..I got carried away and started fitting the bushes when the wishbones dried, forgetting a press is needed I took it into my own initiative by jacking my car up and dropping the wheel onto the bush, acting as a press..Wishbones:Subframe: Although the rear beam is a different story.. So I started stripping it down, got to the chassis mounts, struggled to remove the corroded bolts off, to top it some ape had butchered te inside of both of the carrier Allen key bolts so it was completely round..Upon researching I found that Irwin bolt removers were the best option, and my god they were! I hammered it over and it removed it effortlessly! Well.. I say effortlessly I had a breaker bar with a 32mm spanner on it for leaverage.. A couple of ping sounds later they were removed easily!I honestly recommend these to everyone working on their car! Upon removing everything else I noticed half of the copper lines were corroded and way past their use, so I need to find new ones too.. I then took a junior hack saw, a hammer and a hacksaw to the bushings, 4 hours an 5 blades later I got through the first one, but had to give in because of my stroppyness of thinking that the outter ring had corroded to the rear beam and tree was no way of making it a clean smooth hole again, what I didn't realise is what I was picking at trying to clean up was in fact the outter ring! It needs to be sawn and removed using a hammer.. Job for next time! Making progress..A few days later my heritage order came in, track rods, track rod rubbers, clamps and a GTI plate holder, but upon realising VR6 and corrado ones are different I soon sent the track rods back! Now looking for decent replacement parts!Aswell as that my corrado ECU, transponder and chip came throughThe list is getting smaller but so is the space to keep it all!As soon as it's welded up, I can start putting everything together!
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #3 – July 16, 2020, 04:36:45 PM past few months have been more collecting up and cleaning up, this month it was sent off to be welded up at my mates dads, it has some power so I started to clean up my dash and stray to dynamat it:I also drilled the holes for the clutch master cylinder and dented the chassis leg for the crank pulley clearance, while it is down there I will do a minor shave of the bay and spray it ready to put the engine in.I got my hands on a set of samco hoses for quite cheap too and to utilise them all and get as much cooling as possible I opted for a MK3 VR6 fan instead of the corrado or a aftermarket set up:The idea is to cut the slam panel off and literally use the fan mounting panel which covers the radiator and bolts in until I can afford to fork out the scene tax of a rado radiator.I managed to get a brand new set of Thule roof mounts for £14 from halfords from a friend.. Should look the part and help me take my bmx places too Also fitted along with my weight saving bulkhead Also had a bit of a crazy one this month, spent well over £500 and I'm suffering from it: Sachs Flywheel because of mine being a auto originally Sachs Clutch Green stuff pads and black diamond rear padsAnd some meyle bearings, I'm going FAG on the front but I couldn't find any which wernt £637289173627 for the rears:I also bought a polished bay bolt kit, some random polished bolts like bonnet hinges, slam panel and various engine Bay Area bolts along with polished fuel tank straps, beaded fuel lines, fuel filter and cleaned up my VR6 fuel tank read to go in as soon as I get adapters My rear beam and subframe have been built up, along with a brand new genuine rear mk4 calliper, and the other cleaned using a ultrasonic bath, both painted racecar red for those increase in BHP, track rods need fitting on the front along with the hubs and callipers being painted when they're back from being cleaned The rear brake set up can be put together as soon as I find my other carrier I lost.. FailI've opted for a A/c and PAS delete soo got a PAS rack delete kit and belt from the states tooA random shot of some work:The upper and lower inlet benefited from a clean and polish too, although the lower inlet is going matte black it was still nice to get rid of all the crud Hopefully in a few weeks we may have the engine in after picking up my gearbox in the week..
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #4 – July 16, 2020, 04:44:03 PM Gave the callipers another coat of paint today and attached the track rods, can't wait to have the front hubs attached now! Also I have fibre glassed the back of both front door cards to strengthen them up cause of how flimsy they were, also to give it more of a dense noise when shutting the door along with the dynamat which will be installed.Didn't really do much today cause I was cleaning it out and making room while the golf isn't in the garage.. Ready for the electric to go in for lights, compressor and heaters!Under sealed the inner arches and inside the suspension turret, cleaned the 20+ years of crap from them and covered everything while I was at it, I'm hoping it should add a lot of protection, along with all the running gear under sealed water should just bounce off the bottom!I painted the slam panel and radiator support panel so just waiting for one side to dry before moving onto the next.Got my hands two Porsche D90's in 8J so I can get rid of the 6J fronts and run 8J all round, defiantly in need of a referb but they'll do for now! Going to fit the tyres in the week when the rear wheel bearings are pressed into my discs Back from the welding last night and got straight on with work to it, it's been temp fillered over but it looks good! Starting to make progress now, finished painting and undersealing the rad mount and slam panel just for that added protection and just pleasure for not cutting corners I also did the same to the floor pan for added density and just a bit of peace of mind incase it leaks again It'll be dynamatted over then covered with 35mm underlayAlso my crank oil seal turned up so we cracked the auto flywheel off and replaced the seal Checked the chains and chain guides while I was at it and cleaned everything up, they're solid, no movement and all the guides are perfect, couldn't be more happy!The dash is dynamatted same with the bulkhead so I could do this It'll be removed to fit the loom and heater stuff but it makes me feel that there is more progress happening!Finished the fibreglass reinforcement of the door cards aswell, my fibreglass skills are pretty poor.. The headlining was removed and I began to fibreglass that, ran out of fibreglass after a 1/4 of it, fingers crossed it works!3m of acoustic material and some High temp spray mount is in order for the new headlining, I'll sand down the surface first to ensure optimum contact areaI've also removed both rear quarters from the back to treat the rusted area where the seal sits along with by the boot, both will be treated and repainted and green tint glass installed..
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #5 – July 16, 2020, 04:54:26 PM Collected my gearbox last night and got on with the cleaning of it today as it was horrid! Will get on spraying it once my paint is here Dismantled the front of the engine block to have the aux bracket and oil filter housing to be ultrasonic cleaned and sprayed, gave the engine block a clean in every crevice with a wire brush and some clutch cleaner and engine cleaner, gave it 4 coats of paint too, a million times better!Overspray on the head doesn't bother me cause it's all being wire brushed using a gunMy fuel lines turned up today but I was surprised to open them to find how short they are.. Stupidly I didn't read the description and thought they went from the tank-filter-fuel rail, but they're only the upper half, not to bother though cause the quality of them is amazing! Would recommend anyone needing VR6 fuel lines to get them from boostjunkies, they're chunky but they're amazing! Finished with syntec hose finishers I also started on treating the rusty sill I found the other day with some 80 grit, 150 and 500 grit to get them as clean as possible, I'll get some rust treatment and some zinc primer on it tomorrow Gearbox cleaned up yesterday, gave it a blast over with the air gun after to remove anything loose before I gave it a coat of paintslightly disappointed in the colour, was aiming for a colour like this But when I purchased silver High temp paint, I got this finishRegardless it's definitely a major improvement, once I've given it a few more coats once it's dry I'll take off the slave, 5th gear cover and tower to give them a black coat, need to buy a 5th end gasket tooOnce all dry the flywheel and clutch can join into the engine and the box too!So I carried my headlining from my garage because it was to big too fit, although it came back in two pieces once I taken it off.. I began to fibreglass the rear of it with the help of my mate but annoyingly ran out half way through! More arrived today so I'll crack on with it on SaturdayMy fibreglass skills are pretty poor...Although it's made it a million times stronger!I won a set of H&R adapters 5x100-5x130 on eBay for £50 which is a pain because now I need to either find a cheap set again or buy a new set for £140.. Also the fact mine are currently 4x100-130 not 5x100, damn widetrack conversion!My high temp adhesive turned up and so did my fabric for the headlining so once I have finished the fibreglassing and fixing of the headlining it'll be reupholstered and put back in! I've also began attacking the engine bay, I started with 80 grit then moving onto 240 just to rough it all upTreating the rust patches and sanding as much as I could down without driving myself insane, I never got a end of prep photo because of the excitement of actually starting to spray the bayI let my friend who's pretty decent with paint and cans have a go because I made a total mess out of it, we gave it two coats of primer before running out:Will finish it off with a few more coats on Saturday before starting colour on Monday! I removed the dash again from its brackets and started to piece together the heater box, fixing the flaps inside the box and making sure the correct screws are used using Vag cat and good old google images, I'm aiming to have the dash loom, heater system and fuse box in by next Monday, gives me over a week but I need to aim high to get it done ready for summer!
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #6 – July 16, 2020, 05:07:25 PM I managed to fix my headlining and have it back in one piece, it's a mess currently but the whole things having one more layer of fibreglassing done to it, it's really sturdy!Just need to join the top together and then I can reupholster itHad a nice package turn up yesterday from the states, trying not to be impatient and fit it allBoth Inlet gaskets, a Bosch aux water pump, new thermostat housing kit and a billet crack pipe, some various engine bolts and some MK3 style handles..They're really good quality and for what I Would of paid for one normal handle I got both and they're different!Today i gave the cylinder head a clean up to remove the dirt and oxidised parts, have some High temp lacquer arriving tomorrow so prevent it from happening againI also sprayed some various parts to tidy them up, along with finishing the gearbox in the correct colour I wanted, the 5th gear cover and the gear selector and slave cylinderAnd the lower Inlet to prevent heat soak from it being polished..Along with the final two layers of primer for the engine bayAt the moment it's very repetitive and slow! Until I'm paid again all I can really do is little things, I'm hoping to sell some parts on eBay to find some front wheel bearings to attatch my hubs and get the running gear on, meaning the engine can go in as soon as the bay is sprayed later in the week, and also once the wiring loom is installed!
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #7 – July 16, 2020, 05:11:50 PM Didn't get round to doing all the things I wanted to do as I'm still waiting for my heater matrix gasket, although it gave me time to fix my heater box using neoprene foamI also managed to get some more hammerite to finish off the floor pan meaning it's now ready for the dynamat whenever I find £150 I gave the back of the welded arch a good coat for added protection on the repo panel.On the subject of paint the bay finally got sprayed, I owe my mate some panel degreaser so he's holding my underseal ransom for the chassis legs, once they're beat in for the crank pulley they'll get a seeing too!The cans we used to spray the atlas grey on were shocking... The quality was amazing! But the nozzle was a fan style and it sprayed was literally a jet of paint.. So we ended up standing back about 10ft and tried our best! After 24 layers of laquer too the finish wasn't too bad!I had another set back.. Upon attaching the flywheel three bolts had rounded themselves with my crappy tools meaning I had to order new ones from VW again.. And use a hammer and the correct sized piece to remove them to replace with the new ones! Then when fitting the pressure plate to the flywheel I snapped another pressure plate bolt which was brand new again!Luckily last night i managed to remove it with a small screw driver as the flywheel and bolt were new, meaning it came out relatively easily!So I'm off to pick up the new 6 bolts tomorrow along with the thermostat housing bolts and various other pieces including thrust washers and bolts for the rear beam bearings that my mate kindly pressed into my disks for me!Electric windows and mirrors were also fitted last night but we all know what they look like!
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #8 – July 16, 2020, 05:21:18 PM I ended up marrying the gearbox to the engine Finally DIY engine stand..I also fitted my rear disks, bearings and callipers Pressed my black series powerflex bushes into my corrado cross member Stupidly upside down, so I had to drill them through and scotchpad it down so the bolt went through properlyThe wiring loom all went in and I started labelling things back upAnd then something happenedThe pictures are all quite self explanatoryAfter waiting a few weeks for the heater matrix gasket it could all be thrown together! I borrowed a engine crane from my mates dad and just thought screw it! I bashed the chassis leg in and dropped it in, took almost a year but it's nice to see it finally in there!Bolted the subframe on and the adapters, which look quite nice! Attatched the cross member and vibratechnics solid front mount and in it went! Samco hoses and inlet are only attatched to make me feel like I've made progress though I kind of went a bit crazy on demon tweeks and bought a lot of stuff:Also my adapters for the rear and some red stuff front padsI'm living like poverty but loving it! I fitted the rad and fan set up, me and a friend made some brackets and it fits up nice!The rear beam, front discs and adapters went on aswell as the coilovers The rear beam took us 12 hours (don't ask), after using some copper slip it went in straight awayI got to work on more of my wiring, sorting out all the fuse box and dash loom, sent the engine loom off to get fixed because it was a total mess! Came back amazing! I fitted my fuel tank and undersealled half the car while I was at it, my fuel tank straps were way too long! Weirdly because they're VR ones, so we cut them down and ordered new ones They're filthy and the picture is terrible, look x10 better!I also fitted my VR clocks I got and my steering rack and UJ from a MK3 as the pre-90 spec one didn't fit or neither did the stalksFront tyres were also fitted to the other D90's Other little things like the front engine mount bracket was swapped because I was using a auto one
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #9 – July 16, 2020, 05:33:13 PM This is how I feel with the build right now, after days and days working out wiring and tracing stuff, hours and hours searching forums and asking questions it turns out that my ecu/twist plug/fusebox loom is wrong, no one knows half the plugs I have, all the wire colours are different, I'm missing the coolant and fan loom which is part of the light loom, but it's all a mess, so it all got ripped out.. A few hours before it was looking so niceSo today without hesitating I got to ripping the dash apart to tidy it up and route wires, including fixing my mk3 clocks and stalks fully into my dashI literally loom taped everything, that's all the wires behind my dash! Perfect!Did the same to my fuseboxJust makes life so much easier!The vent pod went in after owning it for a year or so Everything in!Also started on the heatshield material for the bulkhead, need some more bolts to hold it Nicely in place but I'm happy! Sump and rocker cover gaskets, sensors and thermostat are on the way, along with the new engine and light loom, some little bits and fuel lines as I ordered ones which wouldn't fit in the undercar clamps.. Counting down the days now!So maybe things didn't go as I had hoped..The engine loom that had turned up was a distributor loom😞 although Rubjonnys making me one up as I type this...The carpets are in! And it looks x10000 better!, the underlay went everywhere so it's a bit messy, I had jet washed my carpets beforehand to get all the crap out of them Too add to the interior parts I got a set of VDO's for £30 I finally plumbed everything up and added some bias valves for the rear brakes due to the removal of the comp valve, I never want to do brake lines again! Gotta add my brackets to them and straighten it all out though, when I replace the heat matting it'll get done Front brakes had a makeover too and got put on(A 5 year old could paint better than me!)Upon connecting my handbrake cables I realised I stupidly bought two drivers side calipers, so I'm now running two brand new VW read MK4 calipers after another bargain on eBay!Painted it red, stuck it on aaaaannnnd the handbrake cables are too long, the perks of having a cross over 88' model, everything's pre90 spec apart from little things like handbrake cables, so I have 1800mm cables not 1600mm We rolled my rear arch to accommodate my 8J's Until someone kicked a jack underneath by accident when it was being lowered down 😞New sills all round and driver side wheel arch to be replaced then! Might as well do it all now!
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #10 – July 16, 2020, 05:42:47 PM Picked up a miltek system from a Corrado VR6New bolts and gaskets too!As its a late Corrado it has bars not hooks, got around this using a powerflex universal hanger, turning the mount around and hooking it upMore goodies arrived too!16 row mocal oil cooling kit, not a fan of the quality of the hoses but they'll do!Stripped out the sunroof and the silicone, need to find one that isn't £2749402726494 to replace it with when I'm paidI also decided to sell my fan set up and opt for a Spal 12" slimline fan which should be with me on the weekendGave my spark plug holes a clean, it was ridiculous!BeforeAfter12" tweezers and easy start is your friend!Had a major issue with my clutch m/c with mounting it as its horizontal, so me and my mate made this ugly thing!Using some ally, we had two countersunk screws holding the m/c and bolts going through, the ally was pliable enough to mount Nicely to my really neat bulkhead..Gave the whole car loom a nice wrap and tidied the fusebox area upAnd started sanding down the carI've left it so long I can't remember much else.. Let's hope it fires up soon
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #11 – July 16, 2020, 05:52:14 PM OMP braces, somehow managed to find some Goodrich VR6 brake hoses with MK4 rears without buying two sets, power flex top mounts and some other little random partsThe rear too mounts wouldn't Pop through or compress enough on one side to allow the strut brace to go on, so I'm gunna have to wait till I drive it for a bit till it settles The rear hose bracket from the chassis to rear beam I had to drill out with a step drill cuss they wouldn't fit, although the all the other hoses went on fine! Need to tidy the heat shields on the rears..I also need to get the passenger side brake hose mount tack welded back on after I snapped it off when picking up the beam, as well as the expansion tank bracket which I removed, one to fit the nicer looking 90 spec one and two so I can lower it down so it doesn't interfere with the front brace I picked up some 268 cams for £120 which had hardly been used too And some schroth harnesses from Germany Which in all honesty I love, really really like themBought a new radiator, water pump, expansion tank and cap, battery, hundreds of wiring grommets and blanking grommets, the correct handbrake cables for the 27383973 time and some little partsOut with the oldWaiting for some steel to make a bracket for the other side Spal 12" fan mounted too Had to cut a huge chunk out of the radiator support panel to make it fit upright but it's all good! After playing with my gearstick a bit I realised how bad it was, when in 6th I could reach 1st, so I bought a 02M R32 shifter, just need to buy the tower to make it fitGunna mount it inside and run the cables through the bulkheadJohns loom turned up and I'm really happy with it! He added some wires for my VDO's so I can have the running now, I bought a new south performance gauge panel for my centre console My gauges didn't come with backing plates so I had to order some from Germany After a clean up using bleach and rice And finally a working sunroof!
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #12 – July 16, 2020, 05:59:31 PM Bought a 16v NOS heckblende which came in the more hard to find two piece design Sent it straight back for a refund!After I eventually pulled all engine bay wiring out and made some more holes using the step drill so now my ECU sits in my scuttle and all wiring runs through leaving the only wiring left on show being the twist plug and the light loom Very poor photo of it as it's now all taped and hidden Oil cooler is mounted though!As in the photo I've added some 4 gauge earths, mainly as it improves minor things like lights being a tad brighter, little misfires and so on (apparently) and as I don't have a clue where the standard earths go apart from the earth panel on the head and the battery to chassis to gearbox I thought better be safe than sorry I made the original earth bracket my central point so They now go from:Throttle body to central pointBattery to chassisBattery to Central pointGearbox to Central point Central point to chassis I got rid of the heatproof matting as I think it looks cheap, I mounted my bias valves in a better position tooI got HEL to make me a custom braided clutch hose but they got it wrong, I needed m12 one end and m10 the other but needed with two m12 ends, so after a refund and a order from Germany I got a m12-m10 adapterSo I got bored one rainy day so I plugged my battery in to see what would happen, I knew I couldn't start the engine as I needed a water pump pulley, but all lights, dash lights, electric mirrors and windows all worked! I was so so so happy! Mainly because I worried that the mirrors and windows were shot or my terrible attempt of converting a whole car loom from CE1- CE2 would of been a huge failure.. So j ordered every single bulb I had in LED ahaha, I ordered some osram night breakers, new number plate lights, red dash lights like I had on my MK3.. So on Wednesday my water pump pulley turned up, after swapping out the water pump I found all of this: Thinking of the worst that my head gaskets gone I removed the thermostat and flushed her through, it was all clear, I put it all back together and tried to start it, nothing.. No fuel reaching the injectors 😞I realised I didn't have 109 relay for the ECU due to the fusebox being a 16v one..I came back to it yesterday before I go on holiday tomorrow and asked John what I need to jump for the relay, after jumping 4-6 pins and turned the key, still nothing.. I left it in half turn on the keys and headed bubbles in the fuel tank and a buzz, I started to turn the key and then it fired into life! It revved up like the throttle was on full open so I turned it off, found some leaks on the inlet due to some breathers not being attached, covered them and started it again, it idled perfectly! Until.. It went really tappy and I heard hissing, I stopped it and inspected the engine to find the mocal cooler was pissing out oil, it had dumped about 3L of oil in the time of 15 seconds, no warping or signs of pressure damage? I can only assume it was faulty from factory, so I've contacted the seller for a return.. The most important thing is it starts! I'm so happy! I had concerns over my wiring abilitys, the engine having no compression, rings or HG gone, parts I've purchased being broken or just loss of issues.. After almost two years it has a running engine in it that actually runs properly (apart from the cooler)
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #13 – July 16, 2020, 06:06:02 PM Replacement cooler is here! It was sent on Tuesday, phone call Wednesday arranging a replacement or refund, Thursday it was here!I'm now going to try and find a decent place to mount it as I'm not a fan of where I previously did, I'm thinking of some threaded bar coming down from the slam panel to mount it, using nuts and some rubber washers to hold it in place.Been having problems with electrics, all my dash lives used to work but no headunit, now no dash lights and no headunit, can't get my VDO's to illuminate (probably find out they do once my headunit issue is fixed), but my fuse box is a complete mess currently 😞Also the bottom of the newsouth panel keeps bending inwards, gunna have to either take a file to it or put something behind it to stop that issueTidied up my car cause I had nuts and bolts and wires and god knows what else everywhere, had to do my handbrake cables (again wrong ones were sent, so got into a big argument with carpartsaver on eBay which is practically euro car parts, absolutely shocking customer service) so I jacked my rear beam and attempted one last time to get my rear strut brace on, to my relief it bit on a thread and I could actually do it up! Mounted the rear parcel shelf holders and removed the seat belts from the car Really need to get that seat sorted.. Cheeky underside shot of red and shiny partsPut the engine covers on and got a few more photos to make me think it's closer than it is As it was payday I ordered loads of finishing things for the engine.. Will update when they're on!Plugged in my vagcom and found I had a issue with my cam position sensor and my MAF, I couldn't find any cam sensors on the net so before I forked out £60 for one sent from the U.S. I checked the wiring to the plug, it turns out that the earth had broken off of the plug, luckily I had one 2.8mm power timer pin left so I wired it in and attached it on, fired it up and hurray! No more misfiring, it still runs like cramp due to the faulty MAF but it's a damn good improvement I also finished off painting the 02J tower, drained the gearbox fluid, fitted the tower, discovered a pretty big oil leak from the rocker cover/timing chain cover area which I'll have to investigate..
Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD Reply #14 – July 16, 2020, 06:23:52 PM I went possibly a little bit madMy diesel geek shifter arrived and went on a treat, I was missing some circlips till today and gave up with mounting it on the inside so never got to fully appreciate how nice it is, such a positive change in how it feels and looks! (I did drill holes in my bulkhead for the cables to be mounted inside but now I'm using the normal mounting method ill grommet them up until I buy my top mounted adrenalin tuning shifter)I haven't adjusted it yet so currently it's at its longest throw, which is still pretty bloody short! There is minimal travel from neutral into 1-3-5, side to side throw is reduced too!It feels very notchy which I like a lot! Will adjust once I've driven her thoughBrake reservoir for the focus remote was Plummed in and attached, finding somewhere to mount it was becoming problematic as I'm running out of space!Need some flexi-hardline prong like clips and I can bleed the brakesI pulled my finger out and mounted my oil catch tank to my bulkhead and sorted my bias valves which looked tacky previously With some threaded bar, m6 bolts and rubber washers I mounted my oil cooler, using bolts and washers each side of the mounting brackets, rubber washers to dampen the vibration, flipped my fan to the other side of the rad also to make clearance While all the front end was off I mounted my T piece and VDO senders so I can run my gauges and the OEM oil pressure warning/temp gaugesI got some wings from euro car parts, they're good quality but like with most aftermarket parts they'll need adjusting Going to elongate the mounting holes on the door side to get it sat inwards more to get rid of that lip!Sat my G60 arches on and wasn't really impressed, 8J of wheel, Wide track and 25mm spacers and it doesn't even fill..Going to just probably buy some brand new normal GTI arches instead!Swapped out my fogs for some NOS brake cooling vents, although they're meant to attatch to the arch liner (which I don't have) I'm going to fab up some long L shaped brackets from the inner wing/chassis legs to mount the duct Got some red bulbs for my dash (am getting around to doing heater/headlight/window/fog switches) and my VDO's, I also pieced together my dash after swapping out my radio harness again, turns out my headunit is broken not my dash harness although the replacement one I got was x10000 better condition And I have most of my floor back again!I was having major oil leak issues from my rocker cover which I sorted with some instant high temp gasket to help seal the rocker cover gasket, I also cut any manufacture defects off to help it seat betterI picked up another MAF with the dash loom, plugged it in, and hurray! No more horrendous idle hunting or missifiring