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Topic: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD (Read 6262 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #15 –


Replaced my horrendous steering wheel with a 350mm WRC OMP in leather with red stitching along with a momo rep gearknob, wanted to be different instead of having a 3 spoke momo or OMP with suede and yellow stitching.


I also got a snap off boss for it





I ripped out my steering column again because of a wobble, I replaced the bottom bearing but it turns out it's the top one that's shot, unfortunately the bearings are enclosed in the ignition housing so unless I replace it, I won't be able to cure the issue.

While I ripped out the steering column I went to town with the wiring again, heatshirinking and cutting off parts not needed, recrimping things with better crimps and heatshirinking them, all the dash harness is ran through the clips and everything's relocated, a push button has been installed for the horn which will fit in the dash blanks

Before..



Half way through (which is where it still is)



Included in the photo is my VDO air to fuel ratio gauge which will be fully operational once I wore in a wideband 02 sensor

I managed to also get my oil pressure gauge to work, 5 bar might be a little too low though as on cold start its on 4 bar and when revved at 70 degrees it climbs up to 5 bar at 3k rpm




All dash lights are now red after a few hours of soldering, when the dash was in pieces I removed the green film from the clocks to make it brighter









Along with this me and my mate fitted and wired in the banana lights to my fog light switch





To top all of it off I replaced my pathetic 70 amp alternator for a brand new Bosch 150 amp alternator and some 0 gauge wire, although I'm still reading 12v with spal fans, lights and heater running so I need to find out what the issue is, potentially a bad earth or it needs a good run to start charging properly




I swapped out the horrendous clutch master cylinder idea for a remote design using a OBP 0.75 master cylinder, some braided hose and a reservoir, clutch feeling feels amazing and it doesn't from the bulkhead anywhere as much as it did previously
http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/76506BC4-4527-49FE-B43D-E05E98161530_zpsvuzjoj5z.jpg
It also looks x1000 better, I don't know why I half done things before..

Grille spots were cleaned up, Hella stickers installed aswell



Had a issue with my bias valves seeping air when the brake pedal was depressed, turns out the unions I had were too short so I swapped them out for longer ones which stopped it


Pedal is still spongy though after many bleeds, going to attempt to reverse bleed it to see if that makes a difference.

I got a sequential shift light for Christmas which I wired in, I haven't fully set it up yet but I got the light to start at 2k









I like it a lot!

I've mostly been hoarding parts up and saving money for its paint and last parts of welding especially in this weather and the darkness

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #16 –
I made a huge order through VW heritage which included a brand new windscreen, new door rubbers, rear 3/4, windscreen and rear window seals, drivers door window seal, two new sills, jacking stub points, rear drivers side arch, sill trims, still trim retaining strips and clips, door pins, hinges, check straps.. Practically most things to finish the car off

It's now having both sills, rear drivers arch and rear passenger light cluster moulding, expansion tank bracket and Fusebox bracket welded aswell as the bottom under sealed, parts patched up, and then sanded down and painted, it's coming along and should be complete very soon..


So it's been in the hands of a mates dad for a few weeks, Ive had both sills replaced and the rear drivers side arch replaced, all wheel arches are now rolled also, sills have been cavity waxed and the underside has been blasted with 3M waxoyl







The expansion tank is fitted and no longer held up by cable ties



I taken the doors off and all glass out also and started stripping them down for paint



As my bonnet is bent I picked one up from Tim jay who is just up the motorway

As I started to take the windscreen off i realised it was a little bit rusty, along with the boot.



We have suspicions that it was crashed into and repaired as I have no rear quarter grooves, the seam going past the boot is rusty and was covered in seam sealer, behind my light panel was also very badly welded, it's added a few weeks into my completion but it's worth having it all properly done. We stripped out the tailgate loom because although I repaired it, it was a complete mess.



It's being sanded down and fillered and should be primered this weekend



There's not much to say really as most of the work is being done by someone else.

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #17 –
Ordered more NOS parts from Greece, below isn't a fraction of what I've ordered recently, most things now going back on are brand new VW parts for example the doorcard clips, screws, sun visor clips.. You get the idea



While it was being welded I took advantage of having a air gun and a huge collection of tools so I tightened everything up





As I've had nothing to do I've decided to smash on with the headliner

I joined the top and fibreglassed it, sealing cracks with a hot glue gun





It had all tried up foam and glue on it and wouldn't come off, after hours of sanding it I used my brain and used some 'goo be gone' which is a non solvent based adhesive remover which doesn't eat away at the styrofoam, I also used a masonry drill with a cupped wire brush on.. Made short work of it



I need to go over with more adhesive remover and a thick brush but it's much better, hopefully this will improve the adhesive contact.



To add to the finale finally got some pressed plates and another number plate holder



Im still trying to find a passenger 3 door window seal which is new, one sold a new months back on eBay.de for €50.. They're NLA, nowhere has any NOS so guess I've gotta wait it out!

Shouldn't be too long till we see colour

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #18 –
So the last few weeks have seen some big changes, some drawbacks and some progress but it defiantly feels more like a car now



Mid prime





But she came out looking amazing afterwards..






I sourced some really good condition genuine front and back big bumpers along with a hella heckblende, passenger window seal, the stupid expensive plastic boot trim, goldie sunroof mech and stainless sunroof arms





New indicators and my vents fitted, it's crazy how well it all fits now it's genuine and good condition



Everything lines up as it should



Old pins pressed out



The doors were fitted with their new hardware





Wiring sorted for the boot lid along with a new bellow



Painted slam panel and genuine bonnet catch



Glass all fitted, doors mounted and looks beautiful



Although all of this doesn't come without its draw backs




Another mocal blown, it's been sent off and the cause is over pressurisation which isn't covered by mocal, so I've opted for a heavy duty one, longer lines but a smaller matrix, this will be mounted infront of the radiator but behind the grille

A oil flush is going to take place, new genuine filter, R32 sump and oil pump to replace my oil pressure release valve which must be failing

When fitting the windscreen we had a woopsy



So had to spend another £75 but had it fitted for the price

Clutch master also blown up, the circlip popped off so replaced it for a brand new one again, re-bled the system again

I got some conduit and covered most of the wiring harness on show in the engine

Purchased some new badges with some custom parts..





My custom intake turned up so bolted that on, idles and sounds a lot better aswell as asthmatically looks really good







Wings were taken off and back on about 10 times to get them to line up as well as I could, the amount of unnecessary metal there was inside was stupid, both sides under sealed and bolted back on



Somehow I managed to set fire to my heated rear glass switch earth cable



Don't ask me how that happened.. I lost my rear fog light and my heated rear glass kept blowing fuses, so Fusebox back in pieces again, while it was out I replaced my steering column for a tilt one, ignition housing, switch and key/barrel was replaced with brand new items along with a momo boss, lower genuine bearing and Spring. Absolutely no wobble at all so I'm happy! While doing this I purchased a CE1 Fusebox housing and used a angle grinder to elongate the holes, the reason I did this is the old Fusebox housing was a Mk3 one and the bolt holes were wrong, a CE2 one would foul the accelerator pedal, a CE1 has a step in on the bracket which clears the pedal, unfortunately I've lost the photos, the bracket now sits solid and flush so no more tigerseal

Bonnet raisers were removed and sold due to them impacting on the bonnet being able to close properly, can to the good old bonnet prop for me, new hardware like a prop catch, the foam bonnet supports on the wings and the little rubber adjusters were fitted also

Now is where I got silly..

I've always loved the compmotive TH range, more specifically the old style Sierra ones or the TH170's, so I managed to pinch these for £300, they need a referb but for what they are im more than happy





16x7, 4x108 so having to get rid of my Porsche D90's and adapters but it's a win win in my eyes, I've seen to many corsa C's with them on around my area for my liking

I also got even more silly..



I think the pictures explain it enough





It's currently sat in there and will be welded in with brackets when my floorpan is replaced later down the line, it's a very very tight fit, may have to get a inch or so taken off the feet and new brackets welded onto it

I also got my hands on a NOS drivers door handle and lock, still awaiting the handle to turn up but the lock arrived



Hopefully this should all come to a end soon.. I don't know how it's taken me so long



Silly thing

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #19 –
Did the good old standard 'get the car on the road but forget about my build thread'

I did more silly things, I sold the compomotives because it was too much hassle to buy go back to 4x100 (although I did actually get as far as converting back to 4x100, get adapters on the way and almost had the wheels referbished but after almost spending £500 on adapters and referbing I saw these beauty's..




Compomotive TH2's 16X7J in 5x120 fitment but did come with 5X100-5x120 adapters

And this is how they sat.. Perfect for me, I loved the offset and how visible all the brakes and coilovers were.



The doorcards and leather interior ended up going due to it being too rigid after fibreglassing it, the bottoms popped off, it was all deformed.. Due to the cage it wouldn't fit read doorcards in so I took it in a drastic direction.

I've always been a Huge fan of hillclimb and berg cup cars, more function over form.. So I got some carbon fibre doorcards, I used rivnuts along with 6mm allenkey bolts and anodised washers to mount them, I used pond lining and tigerseal for the door membranes behind it



I also got from a friend a touring car snap off boss which is RRP of £200+ and at the same time I rebuilt my steering column and fitted a adjustable one. Including new ignition housing, bearings and springs to eliminate all wobble.

The G60 arches and sill trims went on easily enough also.



I had my rear engine mount machined down by a friend as it was fouling the bonnet closing properly, along with this I adjusted my wings so it fit far more flush





Relocated my clutch reservoir and made a bracket for them



I then went to get it MOT'd, passed with flying colours! The only advisory was the fact that I used a cable tie to do the CV joint and it had come slightly loose, this was replaced when j went home with a boot clip.

I drove the it around for a few weeks and loved it, I fitted a alloy radiator and my heavy duty oil cooler on the front, I also replaced my oil pump and fitted a 10 bar oil pressure sender and gauge, now run at 2 bar on idle and 4-6bar when driving spending on how hard I'm driving



Gave it a good clean with one of my mates but got called off from doing it properly due the rain..





Unfortunately though last week someone decided to hit it when it was parked outside my house.. Luckily there was no panel damage but my front bumper was ripped off, my wheels ground along the curb and both offside wheels were towing in, it turns out she bent the rear beam as she hit it.. She left her number and it's going through her insurance, luckily I insured myself through Adrian flux and I have a agreed value on it, I'm in the process of dealing with it now trying to recover the money for the parts...
















As its now off the road again in pieces be decided to go for stage 2 of the build..

All will been revealed shortly..

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #20 –
Heres where I got silly, hindsight tells me I should of repaired it, sold it and bought a shell to do the following as i literally undone all of my work.. but hey ho

As soon as I got down to the unit and moved in I started stripping it all down to the point where the dash was out again to declutter and remove the wiring looms, the seats and harnesses were removed and replaced with these beautiful items..



Currently everything you see is only mocked up so it fits, using OMP sub frames, sparco side rails and sparco EVO 3 seats finished off with 3" TRS 4 point harnesses

The biggest challenge for me is going to be wiring both of these into the  car..



Emerald K6 plus standalone ECU and a race technologies dash pro 2 with ECU interface

Already I have it base mapped for 630cc injectors and MSD coilpacks, the benifits are I don't have to run a MAF, I can have switchable maps, launch control, boost by gear, anything I want really..

Everything will be run off of the dashboard, all OEM switches are being replaced with flip switches or a interface board so I have more control over the vehicle for example being able to manually engage the cooling fans aswell as having them automatic

Engine wise I've gone the whole 9 yards-














Garrett GT3582R turbo with a T3 flange
3" ATP downpipe
JE 8:5:1 82mm forged pistons
Panchi rifled forged rods
Arp bolts and main stud kit
Schimmel bearing set
Schimmel freeze plug, oil galley and intershaft bearing kit
Super tech 2mm oversized intake and exhaust valves
Techtonic tuning 268 cams
Super tech dual valve springs
Super tech titanium retainers
Super tech stem seals and valve seats
R32 alloy baffled sump and oil pump
Siemens 630cc injectors



Waiting to save up funds for either a custom velocity stacked short runner intake or a schimmel performance one, tial 44mm wastegate and maybe a tubular exhaust manifold.


So in the space of about two days we pulled the engine out and removed the scuttle/raintray, the reason for this is to fit the turbo but also as my rollcage will be braced to the front turrets and triangulated, it will be impossible to have a strong enough structure working around it..








Exhaust and 02M shifter was removed in favour for this beautiful item.. I wish I had the money for a CAE but this will have to do.. adrenlain tuning short shifter




But what's stopping me with all of this power?

310mm hispec floating rotors with 4 pot calipers



Although I was sold them as fitting a VR6 this isn't the case as the calipers are incorrect for the mounting brackets, I need radial calipers as opposed to lug mounted, I have a quote from hispec for the parts to fix this and I'm currently in talks with the seller to sort this out


Until I save up enough for my rollcage not much progress will happen, but I'm currently hoarding parts so minor things may happen

So I've cracked on with mocking some things up and put ideas down before I change my mind

I did buy a Corrado dash and started to attempt to fit it but it was too fiddly for me and because I'm so anal about detail and things properly fitting I gave up which has given me a dilemma. The Corrado dash was big enough for all of my switches, my starter switch system, electric kill switch and gauges.. now with using the MK2 one I'm going to have to find a way wether it be a switch board/pad kind of idea or utilise the space I've got, I'm not a big fan of just cluttering the dash and any flat spot covered in plates and soothing thrown there..

For the moment though I've cracked on with getting my dash cluster in which meant butchers a old set of dials my friend had, I stripped them down to the plastic Facia and used a dremel to cut a carbon backing from my old door cards and I also had to trim the bottom down so it would fit, I'll be adding some black silicone beading around the outside of the carbon to join it but also to clean up the edges


Still saving for my cage so progress is slow...
 

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #21 –
Did enjoy reading through this one, thanks for sharing the thread & pics.

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #22 –
I got exceptionally bored so I decided to start shaving all the seam sealer and paint off of the engine bay.

I began by removing things I didn't need such as the washer bottle bracket, expansion tank bracket..



I then started with a angle grinder and a flapper disc, then using a drill with a wire brush afterwards but it meant progress was slow, so I invested in a twist knot brush too power through it all







I then decided to go one further and bought myself a rotisserie jig too flip it..

Never have I touched cloth so many times than jacking the car up and balancing it on the jig, once on I had to remove the subframe, fuel tank and rear beam..






So i started to crack on with removing all of the old underseal and Seam sealer, to be fair the underside was pretty good, not as much of a horror story as I had thought I would of been.. but saying that I'm only currently half way through, its taken me a good few days on the rear half of the car just because of all of the tight corners and hard to reach areas. I blew up my angle grinder and had to buy a new one, also shares in twist knot discs and wire brushes.



Getting to the back of the spare wheel well was hard enough..




Not if you have the tools for the job though



Made it a lot easier..




Biggest horror parts were the rear passenger side panels behind the arch which had fully rotted away




The ribbed part on the inner sills




I'm aware that I have a few big holes on the inner sill of the pass side but I haven't got that far yet..

Gave it a coat of primer to stop it rusting




It should be done within the next few days hopefully, all arches included.

Once done all of the holes will be cut out and patched up so the floorpan will be completely solid..

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #23 –
It's been a slow few months as I had found out that myself and a friend were paying 55% of the rent on our unit (between 4 of us, the other two were running a business, had a spray booth and most of the floor space, we had one car there which was my golf and still another two cars to move in) after I confronted who we sub-let from we were told we had a month to leave, we contacted the landlord and he sorted us somewhere..

So we had to start again, I've pretty much sat on my engine bay for a week straight removing all seam sealer and anything else.. it's been torturous and so repetitive but thankfully 99% of it is removed and has been blown over with some primer to prevent the surface rust coming..











As I was sat there bored I decided to start on the front inner arches:

I gone as far back as bare metal in some places, I roughed up and degreased the factory primer in other places.

I then coated all rust with some bilt hamber deox gel to treat any surface and mild rust, I then degreased the panels with POR15 degreaser, then topped it with POR15 metal prep, this is important as it removes and traces of rust and leaves a coating which chemically bonds to the metal for the paint, I ran my finger along it and I could only compare it to running your finger along a hedgehog.. it really stuck to the metal and paint, I couldn't wipe it off or even really scratch it off.. this created the best base for the POR15 paint to go over the top.

This stuff is amazing.












It dries to a ceramic glossy finish, very very hard.. but yet flexible, I put a angle grinder with a wire brush attachment on it and it just scuffed the top.. at £30 a can I should bloody well hope so!

I'm happy enough to coat both the inside and underside of my car with this stuff, it's all in the prep, there are areas which I didn't apply the metal prep (as I still have work to do on them) and it is nowhere near as bonded.

It's a shame that it'll be coated with upol raptor but iive bearded even better things about that so we shall see..


Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #24 –
Well since I last updated this I have become more and more frustrated and I do not know how I’ve carried on but I’m now in the clear

After I had done the front arches I got the car back up on the jig and taken all of the underseal off and cut out the rust holes I had found

Both front 4 poster supports were destroyed along with a few grommet holes, I removed anything I didn’t need including rear exhaust hangers and the rusted out part of the exhaust tunnel and rotted bits of the bulkhead, I had some of this all welded up and now awaiting more to be completed

For anyone who is looking at doing what I have done READ THIS CAREFULLY

I took the underseal off and kept the factory primer on where I could, POR15 instructions recommends you can paint over clean paint.. WRONG

I purchased a new tin of POR as my old one was in a pretty bad condition, I painted the underside all the way up until the spare wheel well, the method I used was:

Decrease using marine clean then wiped off with blue roll and washed off (first mistake)

Coated the metal (and factory primer) with metal prep, waited and wiped off and waited till dry (second and third mistake)

I then painted the por15 on and came back the following day to do a second coat (forth mistake)

A few weeks later I accidentally dropped a screwdriver on the paint and realised it had peeled back.. I took some 600 grit to it was infuriated when it all peeled off in small sheets

I then decided to take it all back off again (£80 down the drain)

I realised that by using a wire brush on a angle grinder had only taken it back and was not clean bare metal so I started again... I took it all back to shiney bare metal with a 280 grit flap disc, perfect.. I followed the same steps again by wiping it off and waiting for it to dry, I then seam sealed it with 3M polyurethane seam sealer while it was slightly too wet which made a hell of a mess, I smoothed it out with some thinners and decided to get the upol raptor on it, they supply you with a 750ml bottle of raptor, 250ml of hardener and you tint it yourself with acrylic basecoat tinter, I chose nardo grey.. as I was rushing before work I mixed it all up, charged the compressor and shot it on using a shutz gun.. at 120 psi instead of 40-60psi they recommend, what a F*cking mess it caused, it went on horrendously, enraged at this moment I gave up and went to work..

Attempt number three followed:

I tried to use a heat gun to hopefully warm up the raptor and a scraper to remove it, I then tried a very fine wire brush on a drill to only remove the raptor, that didn’t work either so I had no other option but to take it back to bare metal AGAIN, I’m glad I did though as I took my time and followed these steps this time:

I roughed up the metal with 240 grit so the por15 has something to bond too

I degreased the metal and used a heat gun to dry it all including in the seams

I then used the metal prep the same way, sprayed on and waited 20 mins, rinsed it off with water and heat gunned it dry, this left the powdery white zinc phosphate coating ontop of the metal, I then painted a thin coat ontop of the metal, followed by a second coat when it was tacky, followed again by a third coat.. I left it for the day and came back the following week with some por15 tiecoat heavy build primer which is meant to etch into the por15 to allow you to top coat it, I rubbed back the por15 with some 600 grit and coated it all with tiecoat primer, waited three days (24 hour cure) and came back up to attempt the raptor bed liner again, i redid all of my seams with the seam sealer again, I mixed up the raptor and I shot it at the rear of the car to test it and it came out perfectly, this was a relief for me as i had finally got to where I wanted to be 5 months ago..














































*** Don’t ask me what happened to the photos, I don’t think they transferred over well..

Actual progress has happened, like genuine real progress..

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #25 –
First off is the gaping obvious, the spare wheel well is gone.. cut out as I couldn’t get fully behind it to clean it up and prevent rust from forming, as I’m going to run a fuel cell anyway, it’s no biggie too me..There’s also another reason why which I’ll come to in a bit




Both front Arches got a bottle of raptor each, anything left over was blasted at the bottom again to ensure it’s all nice and covered.








I managed to attack the rear passenger jacking point and that area using a compressor attached sand blaster, it was impossible to get everything using s drill or angle grinder, it was tedious but it worked in the end! The rear chassis leg and jacking point had the same principle of the por15, tie coat blah blah blah..




Found more and more rot behind the rear drivers jacking point, carried through to the where the rear valance is




Here’s where it got fun..



I borrowed by girlfriends dads mig welder and started practicing how to weld, I have never welded in my life and I’ve always said to myself I don’t have the ability or patience to learn, I was under the impression that it would take months of trying on scrap metal to even get semi decent at it...

As with most things I’m a compulsive researcher, if I’m not familiar with things or I want to learn or I have to do something I’m unsure of, I’ll sit there till 2/3am Googling it, reading posts, watching videos.. and that’s what I exactly did.

After two evenings of practicing with scrap metal I decided to try it on the golf, I learnt to weld thin metal or thin to thick metal as it wouldn’t ever benefit me doing 4mm plate as none of my MK2 is probably more than 2mm thick

So I started on the rear passenger arch, I don’t think I have a before photo but I managed to give it a go, all played with 2mm thick steel.







I then did the inner sill of the drivers side which was a pain because I’ve ground so much metal away it’s very thin in some places, trying to keep a decent amount of penetration twinned with not heating it up and blowing holes in it, but also trying to keep a nice decent run going so it’s not built up with loads of tacks

I corrected many parts the first welder (who still owes me money) had done, believe it or not, the inner rear wheel arch skin wasn’t welded down to the body.. only the outter arch by a few small tacks and the sills has two tack marks to join it to the remaining factory sill.

The worst part so far has got to be the bulkhead from where I cut it all out as I’m not running a servo, the bulkhead was all dented and cut out for the old hydro box and also I’m not running a heater matrix so all of them were cut out to what I thought was easy to cut to shape, really was not..









Same story as before, blowing holes left right and centre but were getting there.. I’ve also removed the lip on the chassis legs and stitched them together




Once all welding on the bulkhead is done, I’ll spend some time cleaning up the welds as they’re nowhere near as flat as they could be..


Oh and that big hole at the botttom by the tunnel? Yeah that’s going to be done alright, along with the rest of the exhaust tunnel as it’s a bit shallow..

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #26 –
I cut out the tunnel in preparation for the big tunnel, I had two options: find a over the top priced MK2 syncro one or fabricate one up, I opted for the latter:





I removed the seat mounting points also as they had no use for me, went removing the spot welds I realised how thin the floor pan really was.. some of the spot welds literally teared a hole in the floor pan so I realised something had to be done..



So I welded in a new floor pan using 2mm steel




Although this seems far fetched, it really helped fit my tunnel, he tunnel I opted for was a two piece, big gearbox mk1/2 escort tunnel, allowing me to get the height I needed for the prop to run through

The same happened to the bottom section



The hardest part was trying to weld through the constant fire from the seam sealer in between the panels as it was heating up and melting causing it to leak down right where I was welding.


Using cleco pins I would fit, measure, cut and repeat until the tunnel would fit





I then welded in the tunnel so it would be in its testing position for the front end of the tunnel



The front section of the tunnel was the hardest as it had the curves going to the bulkhead in the incorrect position, so the tunnel would sit wrong or too far out, so I replaced the bits going up to the bulkhead and welded the front of the tunnel in.



Again I ran into more problems as the bulkhead had too many curves and was too thin, the thickness was very very scary as the angle grinder went through it like a hot knife through butter.. and I am not exaggerating. So out came the bulkhead!



A template was made by a friend while I was at work and then cut out the following day



And the new one was put in!



To prevent denting the new bulkhead, a window maker jack was used to push the bulkhead back so it would meet the remains of the old bulkhead

Boot floor was also put in






So following on from what I’ve done, I haven’t made much progress I suppose, well it hasn’t felt like it anyway..


I finished off all of the welding on the underside, ground back what I wasn’t happy with and welded it again..

It was a lot more of the fiddly stuff this time such as where the new tunnel meets the end of the previous exhaust tunnel, photos are limited as my camera has broken..



I decided to put the 2WD stuff back on so I could drop it off of the jig because I was struggling to get inside to weld from the inside..

The whole underside was painted with a few coats of zinc primer and taken off the jig



I also picked up the first body panel for the build..




Full carbon fibre bonnet, it weights absolutely sod all, like to hold something that large and it feel like I’m holding a cardboard box is unreal..

It has its imperfections though which I need to get repaired, but for the price which I picked it up for, it is minor..



I’ve pretty much just been welding more and more of the inside, everything that was cut and welded in on the bottom has been welded again ontop for structural integrity and not to look half done..





I haven’t got a photo but this part is made up of 4 bits of metal, 3 welded from the floorpan to the floorpan reinforcement beam and then The final piece was welded ontop.




All soundproofing/sealant was removed from the drivers side and the whole drivers side was coated in zinc primer





And so far that’s it..

I haven’t had enough time to be up here and I also spent most of summer doing downhill or in the alps/Cornwall to try and make the most of it as opposed to being holed up in a sweltering unit trying to weld in 30+ degree heat.

I’ve got a very reasonable quote for a full weld in cage which I’m now saving up for ontop of going for a higher paying job which should speed up the build massively.

For now I’ll just be cracking on with welding and priming the inside rear for the rollcage to go in..

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #27 –
Small progress but I pulled the mig around the front and made this little gem up..









Excuse the camera quality.. I refuse to spend £95 per month on an iPhone XS so I’m waiting till they get cheaper before I take out a contract so until then, you’ll have to deal with photos which have been taken by a potato

It’s been a slow year, mostly fixing my MK6 and taking it to the ring




Sorting out the unit and making a mezzanine floor and chopping the Quattro in half and storing it all away for the S1 E2 build




Soooo not really sure what I’ve done or missed but here goes..

I finished off the welding on the inside as much as I could and removed the rear seat mount because that’s just weight and as I weigh 110kg.. every little helps





I also finished off the front end by welding 2mm plates over the chassis legs to tidy it up, I then smoothed them over and primed them up for the moment, while I was there I also stitch welded the turret seams









This isn’t a scene queen build, I just could stand the chassis legs and how flimsy they looked

I then didn’t touch it for about 6 months through summer as thats when the mez was getting built and sorting out the unit.. I don’t understand how two people have so much stuff..

I knew I had to save up for a cage at some point and every time I got to about £600 I needed to buy something or fix something.. that’s until I hit the jackpot and found a MK2 Custom cages roll cage on eBay for £590, I instantly bought it and had it collected.

And here is the most progress I’ve made on it in a long long time, started two weeks ago..





None of the stickers were on the tubes and I had no instructions or photos so I contacted custom cages and had some images sent over, then it was a case of matching, tacking and repeating..

This has got to be the worst to install but best fitting rollcage going..

The B pillars had to be cut to allow the main hoop to fit, the A pillar tubes would kick out until the door bar was in place.. the sunroof didn’t fit even though they’re designed for sunroof cars! (Bye bye sunroof)





















Due to me installing the sheet metal floor, the notches for the A pillar legs and main hoop don’t fit but I’ve got a way around that once the metal and spare tube arrive..

Currently it’s only all tacked in, awaiting my mate to find the time to weld it all in as I don’t trust my welder or my skill set! Once it’s done, I’ll be able to start throwing all the parts at it thag I’ve hoarded.

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #28 –
I started on the front triangulation for the roll cage, 38mm tube coming straight from the roll cage into the front turrets using 3mm steel as the spreader plate, I literally just tacked it in and bent it by hand or a BFH and some wood to prevent it from denting. Trying to line up the holes for both tubes was a huge pain and I spent a good part of two hours measuring angles and distances so it went through in one





Ignore the mess on the inside of the bulkhead🙄

 



I’m going to buy some pipe contour gauges on payday to tidy up the notches as I’m not happy with how they all mate together

Spreader plates being made up














I then cracked on with getting the seats in, this was going to be a challenge due to the amount of variables in place as it literally came as 25mm tubes and brackets so making sure they were welded in place was key. I can’t remember how I worked it out but I just bolted through brackets to the seat mounts, places the tubes on and made sure it was equal on both sides, tacked them in place and went from there..

Again using 3mm and some cardboard cut outs I made the spreaders with a large surface area to compensate for the non OEM tunnel which is only 1.7mm thick




















And finally in and mounted!






And now to start on the other side...

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #29 –
I could of sworn I updated this sooner on the old forum but suppose I didn’t so bear with as I can’t remember anything as it’s all been a blur since the start of the year

What I’ve put below is pretty much from the photos I’ve taken and found..

To start with, I finished the seat mounts, again using 3mm steel for the spreader plates, over sized to put some strength into the tunnel as it’s pretty thin.. the seat tubes are held in by approx 6.7mm of steel   Taking into consideration the 1.7mm tunnel, the 3mm spreader and then the 2mm spreader that came with the seat mounts




And then the seats could be mounted for the first time since I bought them over 3 years ago






The roof was removed for access to weld in the cage fully and also for the carbon roof at a later date




The inside was then sanded back to get rid of all the grease, cutting fluid and general dirt and painted with some etch primer and epoxy to stop it rusting with the moisture in the air



The front triangulation was also done using 38.1mm CDS, I was planning on going higher and going through the scuttle but due to the angles, it would of been too close to the dash bar/bend in the tube, really should invest in a plasma cutter for things like this as elongating the hole for the tube with a power file wasn’t fun in the slightest.. spreader plates were again added to brace the tube as it went through the bulkhead





The front turret spreader plates were also boxed in to strengthen them, using 2mm steel I made a “box” off the car using some CAD (cardboard aided design)






But unfortunately I didn’t take any photos when mounting them in..



Afterwards it was time to crack on with mounting the pedal box, and in hindsight I should of stopped there and sold it because I never liked it.. I was literally using it because I bought it, it was an OBP victory line floor mounted box and I thought to myself “oh I can just remove it and replace it at a later date” I was wrong.. so wrong..


But anywho.. I wanted it adjustable so I could move it forward or back so i opted for some unistrut, after removing the galv and bolting it all up, I cracked on with welding it in and making a raised floor around it












I got in the seat and just couldn’t get it comfortable, no matter what I did it was just straining my ankles to put any pressure on the brakes, it felt horrid.. pedals were too high, too close and when placing a wooden block behind the pedal, it would flex..

So I bought this beautiful thing as a replacement, I could fork out the £££ for a tilton set up, especially reverse mounted





I opted for 3x 0.75 rebuildable cylinders as I’ll control the bias using the bias bar and bias valves for the rears, but if my Maths is correct, 0.75 is prime for my 4pots up front


So it sat in a box for a little while as I got on with anything else whilst I was waiting for the cage to get welded in.. one thing was hole sawing and dimple dieing the rear C pillars, this is more for form over function but i managed to shed about 750g from each side









Harness bars were also added



Ensuring that the harness would be between 0 and 45 degrees from the seat to ensure no spines get compressed if the worst happens..

Then the car got pushed around the corner and the cage finally welded in, which has felt like the biggest bit of progress because now I can start bolting things in for good..

A and B pillars were gusseted,  X brace on the main hoop and door bars also gusseted






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And then decided to go back to my original route of a corrado dash, managed to grab a flocked early corrado dash (albeit grey) which will be flocked black at a later date, the dash was cut and chopped to allow the roll cage to pass through, the side brackets for the MK2 dash were cut and welded to the A pillar bars of the roll cage and the front of the dash was trimmed down, thankfully as there’s no heater matrix or anything like that going in, it wasn’t too bad to do.. the holes will be covered with the speaker covers











In this time I also bought a new welder, a murex transmig 350, wired up some 3 phase into the unit and practiced and All I can say is I wish I bought this so much sooner, the power and adjustability is something else..

Side by side for a comparison..



I then started on the pedal box mounting..

I spent ages thinking of a method to retain the adjustability but because the OBP pedal box has its mounting holes on the opposite side (literally a mirror flip) all of the existing brackets were useless.. so out came the angle grinder, I knew I had limited space so I needed to mount the pedal box on an angle to get some extra room for the master cylinders to be removed, whilst I had a gaping hole I could slide my dimple die into, I measured up and hole sawed the “floor” to try and get back some weight savings




The backing plate was made up with some weld in T nuts



The pedal box mount was then mounted using 3mm steel




And finally mounting it





Next, I converted my harnesses to 6 point using an additional TRS 6 point adapter, 100mm x 100mm spreaders were welded in, FIA spec captive nut spreaders and eyelets used for them and also the lap belts








My original vibratechnics front engine mount was refurbished, I missed doing things like this..















And as I’ve got the bug for fabricating things I’ve decided to save some money by building a tubular front cross member as there aren’t any which are in the uk/eu and i refuse to spend 1/5th of the price on postage and import taxes alone..

First of all was what was going to hold the engine mount..




78mm ERW with some 3MM on the bottom








And then the bracket that bolts to the chassis rail, using a tube notcher (best investment ever) I made it from some 38.1 ERW and I can’t complain, using the old insert as a jig, I measured, measured and measured again before cutting





And repeat for both sides..



That’s as far as I’ve got with the cross member until I car get hold of a tube bender


And moving on, I started on a tubular cross member, to allow me to have more adjustability with the oil cooler/radiator/intercooler, again some 3mm bent at 90 degrees for the brackets and 38.1 ERW for the tube itself




That’s as far as I’ve got with the cross member until I mount the front bumper/grille/lights so it all lines up.. god I love making it so much more difficult than I need too

In my downtime between shifts I pulled the syncro gear down from the mez and started to rebuild the arms, I started by sandblasting them


3 coats of etch




Then coated with 4 thin coats of hammerite hammered black



SKF bearings were stripped, degreased and greased with some redline CV-2 high performance grease to ensure the grease lasts increased temps









Powerflex black series bushes were pressed in and mounted to my syncro rear beam to ensure it all fits, 5x100 front VR6 hubs mounted also


I got hold of a TT haldex and a epytec haldex adapter, after about 4 hours of measuring, tacking, grinding, relocating and repeating.. I turned up the amps and welded the diff bracket in for the haldex





And how she currently sits






Also picked up a 60L ATL fuel cell for next to morning with a brand new top plate somewhere along the line




And that’s it! For the moment, next is haldex swap rear drive shafts and god knows what else..